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Region: Pictured Rocks/Munising/Au Train

AU TRAIN
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Located just south of where the Au Train River finally makes its sandy, serpentine union with Lake Superior, Au Train has long been a summer resort. The village is centered on the Au Train-Forest Lake Road that runs south from M-28 at Au Train Bay. Au Train has become a popular retirement community. The population swells in summertime. The local information hub is the Au Train Grocery (906-892-8142), also a gas station, general store, busy sub shop and deli, motel, and liquor store, open year-round. It's on H-03 a few blocks south of the M-28 blinker light. The deli's pasties have a big reputation; the five motel rooms are simple, clean, and convenient, within walking distance to the beach.
| | Just north of M-28 the Au Train River lazily winds its way through sand to Lake Superior. | Au Train Lake, 830 acres, is an all-sports lake known for walleye and large northern pike. Smallmouth bass and large perch have been plentiful.
The sand beach here along Lake Superior extends for miles and offers beautiful views across the bay. Scenic highway turnouts make it easy to get out and walk the beach. Charming Scott Falls is right on the south side of M-28 two miles east of Au Train. Park at the roadside park on the opposite side of the road to get out and explore it.
Au Train's preferred swimming spot is in the warmer Au Train River by the highway bridge, just before it enters the lake. "Au Train" is one of many Upper Peninsula names that comes from voyageurs canoeing Lake Superior's shores. According to Walter Romig in Michigan Place Names: The History of the Founding and the Naming of More than Five Thousand Past and Present Michigan Communities: "The river carried so much sand into the lake here as to form a shoal over which the voyageurs would drag (trainerant, in French) their canoes to make a short cut."
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| | With canoe liveries right off M-28, the gentle Au Train River is a favorite for casual paddlers. | This site was also popular with Ojibwa, who camped here while they hunted and fished nearby. They used the river to begin yearly treks south to Lake Michigan over the Bay de Noc Trail, still maintained for hikers and horses by the Hiawatha National Forest. Later Au Train became a dog-team stop on the northern Upper Peninsula mail route.
The Paulson House, an 1884 house of Swedish log construction, is no longer open to the public. The exterior and front yard, planted with 1900-era bulbs and wildflowers, can be seen from Forest Lake Road, south of Au Train Lake and 2½ miles south of the Au Train blinker light on M-28. The house was once part of Avery Studio's pioneer crafts museum.
Back to Pictured Rocks/Munising/Au Train
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AU TRAIN
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS

These are our choices, not ads.

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AU TRAIN RESTAURANTS
See also: Christmas, Munising, Chatham, Eben.

BROWNSTONE INN
(906) 892-8332

Excellent and interesting food, prepared from scratch, served in a charming setting, with an amiable staff --- that's what brings local people and visitors back to The Brownstone Inn again and again. This distinctive fieldstone building seems like a northwoods version of a comfortable European inn, mellowed by age and use. Homey lace curtains and a Victorian crazy quilt are played off against the stone fireplace and original Rittenhouse rustic furniture. A former Detroit cop built the place in 1946, using local rock and salvage like factory windows. The chance to buy the distinctive building was what drew the owners east from California. Jeffrey Van Bremen, burned out from too much intense, Silicon Valley-style problem-solving, had been taking restaurant cooking classes. He runs the kitchen. The menu and specials combine the expected (fresh whitefish, steak, prime rib, bar food like wing dings and poppers, Friday fresh fish) with the inventive and the gourmet. Fresh lake trout, perch, and walleye rotate through as specials, depending on season and availability. Currently Jeff enjoys making interesting salsas and sauces to go with fish and pork, and inventing different lasagnas. Shiitake, oyster, and crimini mushrooms make a great lasagna with white sauce and zucchini. Now he does a half-size lasagna with fish filet. The fresh local whitefish ($14 at dinner) is prepared many ways, including Jamaican and (for $1 extra) Rocky Mountain-style (with bell peppers, poppyseed). Customers call and ask, "What's Jeff doing interesting tonight?" Cedar-planked salmon is a new favorite. Portions are generous. Dinners include salad, potato or grains (mixed brown rice, rye, sweet potato orzo, and daikon seed), vegetable, and bread. An excellent selection of wines and beers is available to go. On the lunch menu, served any time, are charbroiled hamburgers conventional and exotic ($6.50 to $7 with hand-cut fried and vinaigrette slaw), fresh whitefish sandwiches, and meal-size salads like the huge and popular Laughing Whitefish salad ($11), hot fish filet with jerk seasonings, available with nine homemade dressings. Homemade desserts, cappuccino and coffee drinks are served any time. Dinner reservations are recommended in busy seasons, especially weekends. The dinner menu is now served starting at 3 p.m.; specials may not be ready until 5. Call-ahead takeout orders are encouraged. Come early for yellow lake perch (Friday, when available). Barbecue, usually on Sunday, often sells out by 2. In this small, 60-seat place, there's often a wait between 6 and 8 p.m. Jeff's wife, Deb Molitor, runs the bar and budget --- and teaches special ed in Deerton three half-days a week. Her years as a special ed teacher "translate really well to bartending," she says. "It's all about individual needs."

On M-28 two miles west of Au Train blinker. From Memorial to Labor Day: Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 9 or on weekends to 10 p.m. Sundays noon to 9 p.m. Other times: closed Mon, earlier closing. In slow seasons, call ahead if you're coming within an hour of closing and they'll stay open. Handicap accessible. Family-friendly. Full bar.
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AU TRAIN LODGINGS
See also: Deerton, Marquette (for Seacoast at Sand River), Christmas, Munising.
Arranged from north to south.

ROCK RIVER BEACH RESORT
(906) 892-8112

DONE Rock River Beach Resort (906) 892-8112 Right where the Rock River tumbles into Lake Superior, a charming waterwheel catches the eye of most every motorist on the way to Marquette. It's part of this trim little resort. The 8 cottages, the little dam, and the original waterwheel date from the 1920s. But the resort's origins go back decades before that. As a young man, the grandfather of the present owners, C. C. Brown, rowed down from Marquette to work for his uncle, a lumberman who was cutting the area's white pine. C. C. clerked in his uncle's store in the village of Rock River and decided that some day, when he had a chance, he would live at the Rock River mouth. He fulfilled his dream when he built these rental summer cottages for certain residents of Munising and Marquette. The dam generated power for its electric lights. His son-in-law Byron Braamse continued the picturesque landscaping tradition with stonework. Byron's son Peter and grandson Jack carried on the look with their own embellishments. Today the 2-bedroom housekeeping cottages are mostly booked in summer by repeat weekly guests. But some are likely available from April through early June and again from September into November. They sleep 2 to 8 and currently rent for around $350 a week plus natural gas, or around $75 a night with a two-night minimum. These are simple getaways, tastefully furnished but without TV. Kitchens do have microwaves. Four have stone fireplaces. Some may hear occasional road noise, except for the two cottages south of M-28. "The patio," built on the foundation of a house that burned, is a gathering place with rustic chairs where guests watch the sun set. One side of the beach is sandy with a few pebbles by the water line, the other stony. Rock-picking is a favorite activity. In good weather it's possible to paddle (in your own craft) out to Au Train Island, 3/4 miles offshore, and see the interesting sandstone. The resort's location makes for a low horizon looking north — ideal for getting a good look at the northern lights when they are out. (— May, 2008)

On M-28 at the Rock River mouth, about 6 miles west of Au Train. Open from April thru November. Handicap accessible: call. Family friendly: no extra charge for more people. Well mannered dogs with attentive owners are welcome.
NORTHWOODS RESORT
(906) 892-8114

17 well-kept housekeeping cottages are either near a small sandy beach on Au Train Lake or in a heavily wooded area across the road. The grounds slope gently to the lake, which has a small beach and swimming dock here. Nightly bonfires are held on the beach, weather permitting. There's a Tuesday potluck in July & August. The resort rents boats, motors, canoes, and ride-on-top kayaks --- plus duck blinds in season, and in winter snowmobiles. The sauna is fired up nightly --- a hit with kids. A small game room is off the sauna. Old logging roads from back go into national forest land --- an hour's hike along the winding Au Train River. Near 10-mile mountain bike loop. All cottages have picnic areas with grills. Many have decks. Bedrooms vary from 1 to 5. Cable TV. Smoking is permitted. Courtesy phone in laundry. Typical weekly rates in season $475-$900. Nightly rates in off-season typically $65-$150. Near a main snowmobile trail.

From M-28, go two miles south on Forest Lake Rd./Co. Hwy. 03. Open year-round. Handicap accessible: call. Dogs under 30 lbs. permitted in summer. Larger dogs OK otherwise. Call.
COLEMAN'S PARADISE RESORT
(906) 892-8390; exploringthenorth.com/colemans/resort

7 housekeeping cabins are widely spaced across the lawn behind the owners' house (actually an early resort lodge) overlooking Au Train Lake. This homey resort is up on a hill, so access to the dock and beach is steep, down some stairs. A large, very pleasant deck with many chairs is perched up to take in the sunrise view across the lake. A bonfire pit is nearby. Beneath the deck is a walk-out game room. Cabins vary in size. All have complete kitchens with coffeemakers and microwaves, and a mix of older furniture. Cabins have distant lake views at the least. 8, with 3 bedrooms and fireplaces, can accommodate up to 8. New queen beds in some cabins. Guests can use office phone, internet. Rates begin at $350/week, or $60 a day in off seasons. Summer rentals are by the week and usually booked up. In spring, fall, and winter there's at least a 2-night minimum. The spacious grounds have room for a playground, volleyball, badminton, horseshoes, and basketball. Boats and motors can be rented; bait shop on the premises. Smoking allowed. March, 2008

N 6750 Forest Lake Road. Open year-round. Handicap access: difficult with hilly grounds. One walk-out cabin. Dogs permitted. $25/week for first dog, $7.50 for additional dog.
DANA'S LAKESIDE RESORT
(906) 892-8333

Chicago transplants Amy and Kevin Hersted, owners since 1998 of this 8-cabin Au Train Lake resort, cater to families with children in summer. Their own kids, 18, 15, 9, and 7, seem to enjoy playing with guests. In fact, lines between hosts and guests blur here. We found a swarm of kids running around while a grandfather helped out with playground repairs. Here six cottages are up on the hill above the small sandy beach and dock, with lake views. In back the play area takes center stage: a really nice shuffleboard court, volleyball, tetherball, carpetball, and play equipment. (This would not be a quiet place in summer!) There's also a basketball court. Two cabins are off to the side. The recreation building has a pool table, arcade video games and air hockey (25¢ to 50¢), a washer and drier, and a lending library Amy has assembled from yard sales. Board games and puzzled are loaned out at the office. All cabins have full kitchens and dining areas. Each has a picnic table and charcoal grill. As rewiring is accomplished, more will have microwaves. Most have knotty-pine interiors and sofa sleepers with coordinating easy chairs. Each cabin has cable TV hookups, but bring your own TV! This arrangement is a compromise between families who wanted to avoid TV altogether, and anglers who wanted weather reports. Guests can use office phone. Smoking inside is discouraged. 2005 weekly rates for four people in the six two-bedroom cabins: $410 to $435. The two three-bedroom cottages for six people are $545. Weekly rentals from mid-June through Labor Day. Otherwise, there's a two-day minimum, at $59 to $78 a day. A 14' boat comes with each cabin, with only one mooring, if you bring your own boat. In order to use a boat, guests must bring a motor or rent one here. There's no charge to borrow the pedal boat, canoes, or kayaks (two are for two people, four are singles).

N 6702 Forest Lake Road. Open year-round. Extra people over cottage rating: $60/week, $12/day. Handicap access: call. Dogs: $20/dog/week.
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AU TRAIN CAMPGROUNDS
See also Christmas, Inland Lakes area south of Munising.
The Pictured Rocks/National Forest Visitor Center can advise campers of the availability of many area campsites and their suitability to individual preferences. Stop in for handouts and the latest availability information.

AU TRAIN LAKE CAMPGROUND/Hiawatha National Forest
(906) 387-3700; fs.fed.us/r9/forests/hiawatha. Not reservable

830-acre Au Train Lake, largest in the area, is part of the Hiawatha Naational Forest. It is popular not only for fishing (for northern, walleye, and perch) but for water-skiing. Of the 37 shady rustic sites (no showers, vault toilets, first-come, first-serve) on two asphalt loops, 11 are right on Buck Bay, on the lake's east side. A boat launch and picnic area with swimming beach are adjacent. The 2-mile songbird trail through songbird habitat starts here. Canoes and boats can be rented locally. (—May, 2008)

Just east off H-03/Au Train-Forest Lake Rd., 4 miles south of M-28 at Au Train and 3 miles north of M-94. Look for National Forest sign at Forest Rd. 227. $15/night. Open from May 15 to Sept. 30. Handicap accessible: not currently.
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