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CRYSTAL FALLS
POINTS
OF
INTEREST
Iron County Courthouse. This 1890 courthouse, among Michigan's most memorable, has just been meticulously restored. The courtroom and history room/research area are of special interest. ...
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Downtown Crystal Falls. A classic 1930s WPA post office mural; a 1920s theater with impressive organ; an exceptional sausage shop with takeout sandwiches and soups; a shoemaker/shoe store that's a time trip, a big antique shop; and a pasty/pierogi factory that sells seconds for less. ...
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Harbour House Museum. This unusual cement block house with two-tiered wraparound porch is a local house museum with an outstanding collection of Ojibwa baskets, beaded clothing, and more. ...
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Paint River Boardwalk. Easy access to a beautiful in-town stretch of river ...
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Crystal View Golf Course. A scenic, inexpensive 9-hole course on the steep slope of the Paint River valley, with mature hardwoods framing a grand view of the town ...
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Horserace Rapids. A delightful attraction - not just the rapids but the path twisting around massive boulders among birches and then towering dark pines down to a magical glen. ...
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Runkle Lake Park and Recreation Complex. A mile east of Crystal Falls, this 1920s park has swimming and a beach on Runkle Lake, a log shelter in the pines, a fishing pier, tennis, volleyball, and basketball courts. ...
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Glidden Lake & Lake Mary Plains Pathway. A swimming beach and 10-mile hiking trail through pine plantations and oak uplands adjoin this 23-site rustic campground ...
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Peavy Pond & Michigamme Reservoir /Wisconsin Electric Power. Fishing, paddling, boating, and primitive camping in wilderness areas are possible at these impoundments with long shorelines and many arms. ...
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Bewabic State Park. The four Fortune Lakes are fishing and birding destinations at this beautiful, uncrowded state park with picturesque CCC projects and a good, sandy beach. ...
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Chicaugon Falls. A mile hike leads to the top of this striking, little-visited waterfall that creates a dramatic deep glen among massive, dark boulders ...
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Margeson Falls. Tough to reach, but the reward is a waterrfall in a striking canyon ...
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Region: Iron River, Iron Mountain & the Menominee Range
CRYSTAL FALLS
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Few Midwestern towns enjoy a more spectacular site and provide a more striking visual image than Crystal Falls (pop. 1,800). Where U.S. 2 turns from heading north to west, there emerges the memorable Iron County Courthouse, a tall-towered 1890 Romanesque courthouse that sits at the crest of a steep hill surveying the Paint River Valley. "The Jewel of Iron County," as the courthouse has long been known, is at the very head of the main business street, Superior Avenue, which runs straight down to the river. An undulating, uninterrupted vista of forest unfolds beyond.
 | | The Iron County courthouse caps the view looking up the main street of downtown Crystal Falls. The courthouse's meticulous restoration was completed in 2004. | While steep Superior Avenue creates the town's eye-catching appearance, it is also the Achilles heel of Downtown Crystal Falls. Some people avoid winter trips downtown because of the challenging driving and walking conditions. In snowy weather, local motorists observe a practical parking tradition. Cars park on Superior's downhill (south) side to gain momentum. Four-wheel-drive vehicles graciously park facing uphill.  | | Forests and lakes surround Crystal Falls in all directions. This view from the courthouse looks east across the Paint River Valley. | Crystal Falls actually stole the county seat - a fact widely remembered as an element of the east side vs. west side county rivalry that's still strong today. At Iron County's very inception, economic development on the county's east side, centered at Crystal Falls, was exactly mirrored by that on the west side, at Iron River. Both towns revolved around iron mining and lumber. That coincidence set the stage for inevitable tension between each town's booster groups. 1875 brought the first iron ore prospectors and the first loggers to each area. By 1882 each town had a branch of the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad to serve its mines and lumber camps.
At first Iron River received the temporary designation of county seat. In 1886 voters voted on the permanent location, but the ballots never got counted - why, no one knows. County ledgers were stolen at night and moved to Crystal Falls. Procedural strategies were implemented to keep meetings and offices there. By the time a second vote on the county seat was conducted in 1888, Crystal Falls had legitimately won by nearly 100 votes. The striking vista afforded by the Crystal Falls courthouse site was used to help make its case for the county seat.
The county's west side population around Iron River would eventually overtake the east side in population, but only after 1900. It took that long for Menominee Range iron mines to recover from the depression caused by the nationwide Panic of 1893.
By 1890 Crystal Falls had grown to a population of 3,231. The booming town built a dam and electrical power plant on the Paint River. The oldest Upper Peninsula dam, it can be reached by taking Sixth Street north half a mile from the town center - a scenic detour that also passes the old log houses remaining from the isolated Falls Location mining settlement. (Some houses have been sided over.)
Other architectural legacies of Crystal Falls' boom times in the 1890s and again in the 1920s are the many handsome but not overwhelmingly impressive houses near downtown on Fifth, Marquette, and Crystal. A large population of Finnish immigrants recruited to work in mines and lumber camps still flavors the town today. At the end of July, Finnish Day is celebrated with dance and craft workshops and more. Visit www.crystalfalls.org/culture.
Today Crystal Falls enjoys a reputation as a tight-knit town where natives and a considerable number of transplants and native-born retirees who moved back home work together on community activities from the arts and the environment to historic preservation. "You fall in love with the place," says Pat Sommers, a Grand Rapids transplant who has a sausage shop here. "It's slow, it's easy-going. This is an interesting town, and you can be in the woods in three minutes. You can make a living here if you can live on $5 an hour."
In 1992 national media descended on this quiet place after a Nature journal research article proclaimed the existence of the world's largest and possibly oldest known living organism, an armillaria bulbosa or honey mushroom extending over 30 acres south of Horserace Rapids south of town.
The "humungus fungus," as it was quickly dubbed, was discovered as part of a study of tree pathogens conducted for the United States Navy by researchers at Michigan Tech and the University of Toronto. The study tested possibly negative environmental effects of the Navy's ELF (extremely low frequency) underground antenna system to communicate with submarines. An ELF line was already installed near Marquette to take advantage of its geology on the Canadian Shield, which aids transmission. The studies revealed that the mushroom's underground filaments taken from a wide area were genetically identical. That was different from previously known large fungal colonies, in which molds at intersecting edges were smeared together. This extremely large and successful individual organism, well adapted to its environment, was descended from a single spore probably over 1,500 years old, based on observed growth rates.
Crystal Falls' special status didn't last long. Other similar but larger fungi systems were discovered, including one in Washington state that's 40 times as large.
Economically, Crystal Falls has stagnated for some years, its population in decline. The community is quite progressive, however — as a visit to its community web site indicates. The community web site, www.crystalfalls.org , pulls together information on all sorts of real estate renovation opportunities, surprising cultural resources, and more. Attention has been paid to the town's natural assets and historic architecture. ...continued below...
 | | The new boardwalk gives easy access to the river right in town. | Moreover, Crystal Falls is a designated Renaissance Zone eligible for tax breaks. The infrastructure has been installed for the city's 26-acre industrial park a half mile west of town at the intersection of U.S, 2 and U.S. 141. Several businesses have located there, including a meat processor (it does some bear, mostly venison) and a snowmobile/ATV sales and repair shop.
The "falls" part of Crystal Falls' name has long been harnessed by a dam and a city-owned hydropower plant that today supplies a third of the city's electricity. Anything like a waterfall can only be seen in spring runoff time, as the "Paint River" portion of www.crystalfalls.org shows in historic and contemporary photos of the dam and hydropower plant.
Back to Iron River, Iron Mountain & the Menominee Range
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CRYSTAL FALLS
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS
These are our choices, not ads.
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CRYSTAL FALLS
RESTAURANTS
See also: Iron River, Amasa.
FOB'S FINE FOOD
(906) 875-4200
Fob's is the big, bustling area gathering place. Decor is comfy country. Broasted chicken (battered and fried under pressure) is a specialty. Breakfast is served all day. Prices stun city visitors: Fob's breakfast special (2 eggs, a piece of bacon or sausage, hash browns) is $1.59, daily specials like Swiss steak and rigatoni with salad or soup are from $5 to $6 or so. Pies and soups are made on the premises.
1353 U.S. 2 in the Williams Mini-Mall on U.S. 2 at 141, a simple strip mall with an enclosed sidewalk area. Open daily 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Central Time, in winter to 8 p.m. Wheelchair-accessible. Family-friendly. No alcohol.
SUE'S BORDER SUPPER CLUB
(906) 875-3779
Sue's is known for its steaks. An exceptional soup and salad bar is included with all dinners. Sue's is a favorite of guests at a Wisconsin B&B for the "fabulous" Friday fish fry, Saturday prime rib, and midweek specials ($8-$10). All prices from 2004. Tenderloin stuffed with mushrooms, garlic, and onions ($20) is a standout. Entrées range from $9 to $20. Most are around $15. There are pasta entrées for vegetarians. Diners can also order burgers and sandwiches a la carte. Smoking is only allowed in the separate bar.
On U.S. 2 just inside the Michigan state line, 8 miles south of Crystal Falls and 4 miles north of Florence, Wisconsin. Mon-Thurs 4:30-9 p.m. Central Time, Fri & Sat 4:30-10 p.m. Wheelchair accessible. Family friendly. Full bar.
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CRYSTAL FALLS
LODGINGS
See also Iron River, Amasa. Arranged from west to east.
CRYSTAL WATERS RESORT
(906) 875-3195; yellowpages.com/crystalwatersresort
Longtime guests at this attractive 5-acre resort on First Fortune Lake are delighted that new owners have kept the property a resort. Repeat guests practically fill it in July and August. Spring and fall are more open. All 6 cabins have kitchens. Decks and picture windows look out at the lawn and pleasant, sandy beach with a pier and diving platform. A deck, lawn chairs, and a bonfire pit are by the lake. Each cabin has a TV/DVD, microwave, gas heat, and a 14' boat on its own dock. (Motor rental and gas are available.) For no charge, guests can use the resort's canoes, kayaks, and paddleboat. No internet or air-conditioning. Fans provided.
There's a fish-cleaning house with freezer. The lake, known for walleye, also has perch, bass, bluegill, crappie, and northern pike. A path leads through the wooded back part of Bewabic State Park; it's a 20-minute walk to the park's developed area. Boaters can use the park's boat launch, or a free launch off U.S. 2.
Owners Harry and Wilma Kallies host a 3- to 4-day bird and wildlife weekend in May. The Fortune chain of lakes is a hot spot of bird migration, especially at their resort and Bewabic. "It doesn't get any better than this," says a leader of the local Audubon Society. Loons nest on the lake; visitors are increasing. Some years eagles use the nest on the island across from the cabins.
Most cabins have knotty pine interiors. Three have 2 bedrooms, 1 with a king bed, the other with 2 twins. These are $550 a week in summer, $475 off-season, for 3 people. Ask about larger cabins; one sleeps 10. 3-day rentals are available in non-peak seasons, typically $90-$115/night. Call in Dec. for summer. One mile from snowmobile trail. Smoking permitted. March, 2008
567 Idlewild Rd. off CR 639, which goes south from U.S. 2 west of Bewabic State Park. Open from May into Oct. 4 cabins open through hunting season. The large cabin is open all year. No credit cards. Wheelchair access: call. Level ground. Sidewalk to pier. Small bathrooms. Children: $75/week/extra person over capacity. No pets in rooms. Hunting dogs welcome.
EDGAR'S RIVERVIEW B&B
(906) 875-6213
This place enjoys a secluded setting in the woods on the Michigamme River within about five miles of two big reservoirs. Fishing on the premises is for bass, walleye, and northern pike. Feeders mean many birds and deer are constant visitors. All three guest rooms have river views, as does the deck. Edgar's is a blend of inn and homestay B&B. The three guest rooms ($85, $95, and for whirlpool room $105) are in their own wing, with a separate entrance.
Richard and Danelle Edgar are genial, laid-back hosts. Ask Danelle, a city girl, about the challenges of real estate sales in Iron County. She's fully prepared with snowshoes, waterproof boots, and a snowmobile to get to those "secluded properties" away from any road and off the electric grid, too. Guests share most of the rest of the house with Richard, Danelle, and their two children. Guests are welcome to use the fridge and relax in the fireside gathering room with a tall stone fireplace and cathedral ceiling. It's decorated in mix of northwoods, country, Indian things, and a few hunting trophies. There's a full breakfast. Richard offers canoe rentals and spotting, and an informal guide service on his deck boat, for fishing and watching eagles. Guests can use cross-country skis and snowshoes. On snowmobile trail.
On south side of M-69 at the Michigamme River, 6 miles east of Crystal Falls. Open year-round. Handicap accessible: call. Much is wheelchair-accessible. Families: no extra charge. No pets. www.iron.org/biz/river/edriver.html
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CRYSTAL FALLS
CAMPGROUNDS
See also Iron River and Pentoga Park near Iron River. Arranged from west to east.
BEWABIC STATE PARK
(906) 875-3324
This beautiful state park on a chain of four lakes offers swimming, tennis, and good canoeing, kayaking, and fishing. Most sites in the 144-site modern campground ($14 and $16 a night) are in a heavily wooded area that enjoys excellent privacy plus electricity and showers. Foot trails and a drive connect the campground with the nearest lake, 1/4 to 1/2 mile away. (The campground used to be near the lake, but the septic system failed.) Use, though not heavy, is increasing; Bewabic has tended to fill on July and August weekends. The popular lakes may be busy on Saturday but are never crowded; Pentoga Lake is more heavily used. The two-mile trail system goes mostly through mature hardwood forest of maples and birch. Canoeist-campers who'd like to avoid other campers altogether should ask at the office for the map to 40 acres of state land on Third Lake, on which they can camp informally.
On U.S. 2, four miles west of Crystal Falls and about 11 miles east of Iron River, on the west side of First Fortune Lake. Open all year. Campground not plowed; winter plug-ins are by the office. State park sticker required: $6/day for Michigan residents, $8 otherwise. Annual pass is $24 for residents, $29 otherwise. Handicap accessibility: call. Buildings are not ADA accessible.
PAINT RIVER HILLS CAMPGROUND
(906) 875-4977; prhcamp.com Reservable
Local people who love their town's beauty spots are impressed with this new tidy, clean campground on 36 acres, new in 2003. It's on the west side of the Paint River, within walking distance to town. The 5 cabins, 12 tent sites, and 16 RV sites don't have river views But water can be heard everywhere. A half-mile interpreted trail loop goes along the riverside bluffs and then descends to take an improved path through the large white cedars and hardwoods. Anyone can use it. Many kinds of wildlife are seen here. A documentary video tells about the wigwam on the site.
12' x 12' log cabins, heated and insulated, are in a semi-circle around the bath and shower house. They don't have bathrooms or kitchens. Each sleeps 4 in a double-bed bunk and a twin bunk. Nightly rentals are $38-$40.
4 pull-through RV sites ($22/night, weekly discount) have sewer, water, and 50 amp service. 6 pull-through sites ($20) have 30 amp service. 18 back-in and tent sites ($15 primitive or $20 with 30 amp service and water) are in shady areas, well separated by landscape buffers. March, 2008
525 Paint River Hills Road. From Superior in town, turn north onto Second St. near bottom of hill. Campground signs are in one block. Open mid- May thru Nov. Not plowed in winter, but cabins are open to snowmobilers. (Water is on in the bathhouse.) Wheelchair access: call. Rates cover 2 adults with 4 children. $2/extra person. Dogs permitted on leashes. Must be crated in cabins.
RUNKLE PARK AND CAMPGROUND
(906) 875-3051
The 57 campsites at this pretty lakeside park from the 1920s have electricity, shade, water hookups, and showers, but no privacy buffers. (See "points of interest" for Runkle Park.) There are tennis courts and ball diamonds. Walking distance to Crystal Falls, golf.
Off M-69 about 1/2 mile east of the Paint River and Crystal Falls. Turn north at sign. Park is just ahead. About $10/night without sewage hookup, $15/night with it. Open from Mem. through Labor Day weekends. Handicap accessible: mostly pretty good, but not ADA accessible. Firm ground. Wheelchair-accessible fishing pier. Occasional tree roots. Dogs permitte.
Primitive camping at
PEAVY POND and the MICHIGAMME RESERVOIR/
(906) 779-2479
Wisconsin Electric Power (now "We Energies") owns 13 hydroelectric dams on the Menominee River watershed in the Upper Peninsula and Northern Wisconsin. It also owns 40,000 acres of surrounding recreational land, which the company calls "Wilderness Shores." These reservoirs are its two biggest, on the Michigamme River less than ten miles from Crystal Falls. They have long, irregular shorelines of many inlets and peninsulas. The long Michigamme Reservoir is northeast of town. Peavy Pond is to the southeast. There are also campsites along the Brule River.
Fishing is the big attraction, for smallmouth bass, walleye, northern pike, muskellunge, and panfish. Eagles, osprey, and other raptors prey on the fish. Most of the land is open to hunting, with deer and grouse the main attractions.
"We Energies" has voluntarily developed small, primitive campgrounds on so-called "project lands" around dams that are licensed by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission. These lands are required to be open to public access, with boat launches provided. See "Camping" for Crystal Falls.
Wisconsin Electric Power sites and rules are described on its web site, www.we-energies.com/environment/ . The map is currently crude and hard to read. A better online map is at www.fishweb.com/maps/wilderness-shores An excellent, detailed color map is in the "Wilderness Shores" pamphlet, available at the Iron River Chamber of Commerce, Michigan and Wisconsin Welcome Centers (in Iron Mountain, Ironwood, Hurley, and Menominee). Or write Wisconsin Electric Power, 800 Industrial Park Dr., Iron Mountain, MI 49801. Attn: Hydroelectric Operations Division. Or call the Iron Mountain office at (906) 779-2479.
GLIDDEN LAKE CAMPGROUND/COPPER COUNTRY STATE FOREST
(906) 353-6651
A beach and boat launch are near the 23-site rustic campground (no electricity or showers, vault toilets) at Glidden Lake. A 10-mile hiking/ski path starts here. This is just a mile east of the Michigamme River, near Peavy Pond and its good walleye fishing.
Look for the sign to the campground on M-69 5 miles east of Crystal Falls. Campground is one mile south of highway. $10/ night. Handicap accessible: call. Dogs permitted on 6-foot leash.
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