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DRUMMOND ISLAND
POINTS
OF
INTEREST
North Haven Rentals & Gifts. A good first stop on the island, this log lodge has an upscale gift shop, canoe, kayak, and pontoon boat rentals, maps, and advice ...
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Drummond Island Yacht Haven. A big marina with a variety of boat rentals (from fishing to pontoon boats), also guides, and lots of supplies and gear ...
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Drummond Island Historical Museum. Items include items used by Indians, Finnish farmers, Yankee settlers, plus displays of a British fort, the lumber era, ferry boats, and commercial fishing ...
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Drummond Island Resort & Conference Center. 2000 acres bought by Domino's Pizza magnate Tom Monaghan with a beautiful golf course, a lavish retreat, a splendid bowling alley, restaurants, a beautiful clay shooting range ...
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Big Shoal Township Beach. A tucked-away sand beach in a cove ...
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Back country adventures. 200-foot-high cliffs, a river connecting 4 lakes with wild rice and loons, a limestone outcropping with rare grasslands and alpine plants, a place rich in fossils, a protected bay with 30 islands ...
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Region: Les Cheneaux Islands, Drummond Island & the St. Mary's River
DRUMMOND ISLAND
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"There's so much to do on Drummond Island, but you have to know where to go," say one veteran visitor. From the road, the island can seem like merely a lot of trees because few roads offer views of its interesting shoreline. Full of coves and bays and little limestone islands, the shore, when open and sunny, is studded with wildflowers all summer long. The many inland lakes aren't readily visible, either. And there's not a lot of planned entertainment here. Fishing has long been the mainstay of the resort economy, and before that of resident Indians. Once subsistence farms, often Finnish, dotted the island. Today the limestone quarry on Humms Road south of the ferry provides some good-paying jobs. The island's year-round population is growing steadily, from 746 in 1980 to 835 in 1990 and 992 in 2000, due largely to retirees.
Drummond Island is the largest U.S. island in the Great Lakes. The British built a fort here in 1815, having lost their Mackinac fort and fur-trading center to the Americans at the end of the War of 1812. (A reconstructed chimney and other artifacts from the fort can be seen at the island museum.) The Treaty of Ghent that ended the war agreed to appoint a joint commission to survey the boundary between the U.S. and Canada, using the main shipping channel as the border in the case of islands in the Detroit and St. Mary's rivers. Thus Drummond became American, and the British abandoned their fort in 1828.
The island's commercial hub extends along Townline Road from the M-134 four-corners north to Drummond village on the north shore and island-studded Potagannissing Bay, with its waterfront park and playground and historical museum. (This long word is pronounced "POT-uh-GAN-iss-ing.") A nine-hole public golf course and two tennis courts are west off Townline Road by the airport.
In winter there's a skating rink by the town hall. Ice bridges to Canada from Potagannissing Bay is marked by Christmas trees. They link Drummond with St. Joseph Island and Thessalon, Ontario, the only two places where U.S. snowmobilers can legally cross into Canada.
Some 70% of the island is state land, much of which is quite wild and not easily accessible. Some 5,000 people are on the island in summer, but they're so dispersed, it doesn't feel crowded. Though fishing, boating, and hunting form the basis of the resort economy, Drummond Island's attractions aren't limited to those pursuits. The protected coves and interesting, ragged rocky shoreline make for really interesting kayaking and canoeing.
Here the same limestone escarpment that forms the Garden and Door peninsulas is at the surface, not overlain by much glacial till. The thin alkaline soils make for unusual soil conditions that encourage specialized plants. With so many habitats - marshlands, cedar swamps, ridges of mature maples and pines, popple, plains and meadows, inland lakes and a marshy river - the island is a dream to botanists and naturalists. Rare ferns and an unusual variety of orchids can be found. Loons and an occasional bobcat and moose can be seen. Wolves are in residence on the island. (Drummond has no skunks, possums, or porcupines, however.) Far from cities, the night sky is very dark. Maple syrup-making continues to be a big thing on the island. So is morel month in May. As in so much of the Upper Peninsula, berry-picking is a special pleasure. Wild strawberries and raspberries typically ripen in mid-June and mid-July respectively. The May warbler migration is spectacular. The entire south shore is full of warblers that have flown across Lake Huron and stopped to rest and eat blue flies.
Drummond Island is ideal for people who like to explore interesting habitats by kayak, canoe, mountain bike, or hiking. But the island isn't all neatly signed and interpreted. To get out and explore the wild areas, you can take interior roads that turn into two tracks, then get out and walk. North Haven Rentals & Gifts on M-134 and Fairbank Point Road, 2.7 miles east of the ferry (see below), is a handy place to stop for local information and rent canoes and kayaks. (Drummond Island Outfitters went out of business because of health problems.)
It's a misconception that the island was wrecked by pizza magnate Tom Monaghan and his 3,000-acre golf resort, the subject of much negative publicity in the late 1980s. Monaghan's enthusiasm and grandiose projects inspired much controversy. Monaghan sold the resort to Clif Haley, retired CEO of Budget Rent-a-Car, and the Bailey family, longtime Drummond residents and the owners of Yacht Haven. Renamed Woodmoor and, more recently, Drummond Island Resort and Conference Center, it has a famous golf course and sponsors a variety of interesting activities.
Back to Les Cheneaux Islands, Drummond Island & the St. Mary's River
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DRUMMOND ISLAND
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS
These are our choices, not ads.
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DRUMMOND ISLAND
RESTAURANTS
GOURMET GALLEY Deli/ESPRESSO BEAN Café /PORT OF CALL Restaurant
(906) 493-5507. www.drummondgourmet.com
What started out in 1986 as a bait shop with smoked fish has evolved into a deli, a fudge and confectionery kitchen (new), cocktail lounge, and a restaurant with delicacies rarely if ever found elsewhere in the U.P. There are Zingerman's famous "artisanal" breads from Ann Arbor, corned beef supplied to Detroit's Jewish delis, and "Seattle's Best" coffee, Starbuck's alternative brand.
Mike Helfand has always gone for quality food, going back to his boyhood in metro Detroit, when he opted for squeezed lemonade, not Kool-Aid, at his neighborhood stand.
All varieties of Zingerman's breads are sold here, along with over 300 wines, 100 beers, and all manner of crackers, sauces, tinned patés, and specialty foods from far and near. The Helfands make jams and jellies and now fudge and sweets for individuals, fundraisers, and corporate gifts. (www.drummondislandfudge.com)
The informal deli/coffeehouse has many special touches, starting with great breakfasts. Breakfast toast can be made of all 15 Zingerman's breads. (Eggs, sausage, potatoes, and toast are about $6.) Cappuccinos, lattés, and a full line of coffee drinks are brewed on the spot. The deli serves burgers and fries, a prime rib sandwich, and a huge half-pound of corned beef on rye ($8-$9). Soups like an Asian vegetable-noodle soup and a roasted red pepper-tomato soup are a point of pride. Seating is at the counter, at small tables, and at outdoor picnic tables in mild weather.
Melody is the operations manager. Mike, the imaginative entrepreneur-chef, draws on his Italian and Jewish family food roots and his catering experience. Fresh baked dinner bread comes with his aunt's Sicilian dipping sauce. He makes his own chopped liver. He makes hickory-applewood-smoked chicken (around $15 at dinner) and ribs, which can be vacuum-packed for customers to heat and eat in cottages or on boats.
The restaurant's full menu includes whitefish ($16 to $17), walleye, perch ($18-$19), prime aged steaks, and scampi. Dinners include organic green salad or soup, plus choice of potato, rice, or steamed vegetables. There's an extensive wine list. Vegetarian on request, to individual order. Reservations accepted but not necessary. Complete menu at www.drummondgourmet.com
Melody and Mike also own the adjacent Island Flower and Garden Center. (Nov. 2007)
p-accessible. Beer and wine.
On M-134 about 8 miles east of the ferry, ¼ mile east of the blinker light. Open year-round. From sometime in April after snowmelt into late Nov.: open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., to 9 p.m. Sunday. From Jan. thru March open weekends 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. or so. Call for off-season hours, and call to confirm in bad winter weather. Dinner is possible most times by advance reservation. Handicap-accessible. Family-friendly. Beer and wine.
BEAR TRACK INN
(906) 493-5090
The local year-round breakfast gathering spot is the Bear Track Inn. It also serves lunch and has a motel next door. A breakfast favorite is the German omelette (3 eggs with potatos, onions, ham, bacon, sauasage, plus sourcream ($7.65). Another are the platters of huge pancakes Also known for huge pancakes (3 for $4.90). For lunch the Monte Cristo sandwich is popular: grilled French bread, Swiss cheese, ham, and turkey ($8).
On Town Line Rd. between the four corners and the village, across from the school. Open daily year-round. Mon-Sat 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sun 7-noon, breakfast only. Handicap accessible.
PINS GRILL
(906) 493-1003
Located at the Drummond Island Resort's bowling center, this is the resort's breakfast spot and a popular eatery Pizza is a big draw; 16” classic, Mexican, chicken fajita, and veggie pizzas run around $15. Dinner entrées like chicken breasts, whitefish, or sirloin steak run from around $11 to $16, including soup or salad and starch; Southwestern entrées are $7 to $9. Then there's a big sandwich menu ($5 to $7, served with fries), homemade soups, salads, and nightly specials. Expect a wait.
On Maxton Rd. about 2 miles east of Drummond Village. Follow signs from Johnswood Rd. or Drummond Rd. Open daily from Mem. Day through September. In May and October open weekends for breakfast and lunch, nightly for dinner. Handicap accessible. Family friendly. Full bar.
BAYSIDE DINING
(906) 493-1014
Bayside at Drummond Island Resort offers fine dining in a lovely setting overlooking Potagannissing Bay. Tom Monaghan designed the space in the mature style of his idol, Frank Lloyd Wright. It served as the dining area for his corporate retreat. Entrée samplings: whitefish Niçoise with risotto primavera ($24), sautéed pork loin medallions stuffed with Brie over apple and verde vegetable julienne with chive mashed potatoes ($24).All come with soup or salad. Ask about special wine dinners. Reservations advised, especially in summer.
At the junction of Maxton Rd. and Tourist Rd. Open daily 6-10 p.m. from Mem. Day weekend through September, weekends in Oct, Jan, Feb and March. Handicap accessible.
CHUCK'S PLACE
(906) 493-5480
This quintessential old-time northwoods bar with mounted hunting trophies and pool table also serves really good food. It's a favorite local hangout year-round. Daily specials include generous tacos ($3.95 for two; $1.99 for one) on Monday night, unlimited Friday fish fry ($7.95). The regular menu ranges from burgers, bisonburgers, and a very popular cheesesteak hoagie ($5.95) to pizza Tuesday 1 for 8.50 2 FOR 12.95, a 16 oz,. porterhouse ($14), and pork ribs (half rack $10.95, full rack $15.95). One large room may be hard for the smoke-sensitive.
On Johnswood Road 6 miles east of the four corners, opposite the country store. Open year-round except Christmas Day. Kitchen open from 11 A.M. to as late as 2 AM. later in summer. Winter basically the same. Bar open at least 'til midnight. Handicap accessible: side door, slight hump. Family friendly. Full bar.
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DRUMMOND ISLAND
LODGINGS
DRUMMOND ISLAND RESORT & CONFERENCE CENTER
(800) 999-6343
Lots of little extras make this an
attractive destination for people who like the outdoors. Guests have free use of mountain bikes, cross-country skis, snowshoes, canoes, kayaks, and sailboats. 12 miles of hiking and groomed cross-country ski trails in nearby woods include a 3/4
mile interpretive nature trail. There are an outdoor pool, hot tub, tennis, a gym, and sauna on the premises.
Owners and managers hope to build on nature-related activities. Guests can borrow binoculars and guides from the bird-watching library. Bowling is available for a fee. So is the sporting clays course ($24/50 clays). Boat rentals and fishing charters can be arranged. The Rock golf course is 1.2 miles from the lodge via a paved cart path. Ask about golf packages, couples' retreats, lodging & Bayside dining packages.
At Woodmor Lodge 40 log lodge rooms with rustic decor come with refrigerators, satellite TV/VCRs, and phones with voice mail. Half are loft rooms with cathedral ceilings and an upstairs loft with queen bed. Rates
are $154 in summer, $69 on off-season weekdays. A casual restaurant is next door at
Pins bowling alley.
The resort evolved from the corporate retreat of Domino's Pizza founder Tom Monaghan. See separate point of interest.
Handicap-accessible. Family friendly: 12 & under sleep and eat
free. Pets: call. $50/stay.
NORTHERN PROPERTIES
(800) 292-5064; (906) 493-5930
This company rents out private island residences when the owners aren't using them, from small cabins to 3,800 sq. ft. homes, 75% of them on the water. Amenities vary according to the residence. Some have hot tubs, some dish TV, etc. Prices range from $150/night for a cabin during off-peak season that sleeps four to a high of $1,955/night during peak season for a home that sleeps 10.
Company headquarters are 7.5 miles down E. Channel Rd. on the left.
YACHT HAVEN
(906) 493-5232; fax (906) 493-5229
33 attractive cottages with picture windows and decks are sited to take advantage of excellent views of Potagannissing Bay and its many islands. Some cottages are on the water. Others are perched on the wooded hillside behind it. The 3-bedroom cottages with big stone fireplaces are especially nice. Two small, sandy beaches are next to the cottages. Extras include outdoor grills and picnic tables, horseshoes, croquet, basketball, volleyball, and hiking trails nearby, cable TV, wi-fi.. The cottages are set apart from the owners' busy Yacht Haven marina, where fishing boats and motors, pontoon boats, runabouts, and water-ski boats can be rented. Weekly/daily rates: for 1-3 bedrooms $90-$230/night. . Reservations accepted a year in advance; it's best to make them by year's end at least. The Baileys are descended from old island families and have seen and done a lot on the island themselves. Today they are also co-owners of the Drummond Island Resort. They're good to talk to when things aren't too busy.
At the west edge of Drummond village. Turn right at the post office and keep going until you reach the water. Open year-round. Handicap accessible.
ANNIE'S ATTIC
(906) 493-5378
Close to the ferry and on the island's south side, away from other resorts, Anne Stadler, a portrait photographer and former editor of the island's monthly newspaper, has three antique-filled guest rooms in her family's 1911 cabin and in the attractively remodeled carriage house behind it. There's a stone fireplace and lawn with a grand view of Whitney Bay, its islands, and freighters beyond it. Birds, butterflies, and wildflowers abound here as on much of the island. There's a canoe for guests to use. In the main house, two guest rooms share a bathroom ($65/night) ($10 more with full breakfast for 2) The carriage house is $75/night (+ $10 for full breakfast for 2). Carriage house private bath. Flower-filled gazebo in front yard with wicker furniture. Smoke-free.
36735 S Humms Rd., (the first right east of the ferry off M-134), over the hill from the quarry. Handicap accessible: no. Carriage house good for children. No pets. Smoke free.
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DRUMMOND ISLAND
CAMPGROUNDS
DRUMMOND TOWNSHIP PARK
(906) 493-5321
About 40 rustic sites (vault toilets, no showers) enjoy a private, pretty wooded setting near the water, with one of the island's few sand beaches for swimming. Some sites have electricity. The convenient location is not far from the village, ferry, or commercial four-corners. There's a boat ramp. This is a good place for kayakers and canoeists to put in. This first-come, first-serve campground is a very popular place in summer. Spots are more likely to open up during the week. Failing that, campers can almost always find spots at several resort campgrounds: Four Seasons on Tourist Rd. (493-5291), H&H in the village (493-5288), and Johnson's Resort on Scott Bay (493-5550).
Just north off M-134, 7 miles east of the ferry. Currently $8/night, $9.25 with electricity.
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