|
|
GARDEN PENINSULA
POINTS
OF
INTEREST
Beach and trails at Fayette Historic State Park. A mile-long sand beach, beautiful and underused, with a 5-mile hiking trail to the campground and townsite. ...
more
Fayette Townsite. The museum-like "ghost town" is the remains of a company town around a charcoal pig-iron smelter serving Union arms manufacturers during the Civil War. The town curves around pretty Snail Shell Harbor on Lake Michigan ...
more
Garden Orchards. A general apple orchard especially known for its unusual Honey Gold apple, sweet and so sensitive workers have to wear gloves to handle it. ...
more
Portage Bay Beach and Ninga Aki Pathway/Lake Superior State Forest. Low sand dunes, mature pines, spring wildflowers, and a secluded, sandy beach make these two short loops wonderful walks. Signs tell about 15 important plants in traditional Ojibwa life. ...
more
Marygrove Retreat Center and bookstore. Since its beginnings the Catholic Church has had a robust tradition of spiritual retreats – stepping away from the busyness of life. This one is open to anyone interested in taking time away from the bustle of modern life ...
more
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Region: Manistique and the Garden Peninsula
GARDEN PENINSULA
|
Fayette, the picturesque iron smelting "ghost town," is toward the tip of the 21-mile-long Garden Peninsula. The peninsula gets its name because its fertile land, together with Lake Michigan's moderating waters all around it, made it better suited for farming and orchards than most Upper Peninsula locales. The temperatures are more like that of mid-Michigan 150 miles to the south. And the microclimate is akin to the wine regions of Leelanau County and the Old Mission Peninsula. Winemaker Ralph Stabile is looking for Garden land for the U.P.'s first commercial vineyard.
Garden was where Big Bill Bonifas, the expansive, super-wealthy Escanaba lumberman, got his start. His name is more often associated with large tracts of timber in the western Upper Peninsula. His fictionalized alter ego appears in Come and Get It, Edna Ferber's novel about Michign's Gogebic Iron Range and notorious Hurley, Wisconsin, across the state line. The 1936 movie version, still available on DVD, was directed by Howard Hawks and starred cult actress Frances Farmer in her most memorable role.
Born in 1865, Bonifas was a poor young man when he left Luxembourg. He intended to go west to work in the Dakota wheat fields, the story goes, but caught the wrong train and ended up in Green Bay without enough money to go further. He made his way to Escanaba and found work cutting swamp timber for railroad ties and fence posts. Bonifas worked hard and saved enough to bring his brothers and sisters from Luxembourg. Then he set up a lumber camp in Garden with 40 workers. His future wife, Catherine, fresh from Ireland, found work there. This must have been in the 1890s.
...continued below...
 | | Downtown Garden isn’t as dead as it looks. K-LO’s is a grocery with ice cream stand. Across the street are the Garden Historical Museum and Village Artisan’s, an excellent regional crafts and gift gallery. The Marygrove Retreat Center is a spiritual destination not just for Catholics. | Bonifas invested the money he made from Garden logging in Upper Peninsula pine farther west. When that timber was cut, he bought more land out west. By 1936, when he died, he had invested in automobiles, paper, and oil and made fortunes several times over. Escanaba, Bay de Noc Community College, and various Catholic institutions gained immensely from the Bonifas fortune, for Bill and Catherine left no heirs.
Escanaba's grateful city government posts the Bonifas story, author anonymous, on its web site, www.escanaba.org/history/bonifasstory.htm. "Unlike Big Bill," it says, "Catherine was shy and retiring, a homebody who, even with millions, scrubbed her own floors and darned her own stockings." Visitors mistook her for the maid, she was so completely unassuming. A trusted advisor and civic leader investigated worthy projects so she wouldn't be hounded by requests for donations. The Bonifas legacy pops up throughout the area. Marygrove in Garden was one of its first fruits.
Lake Michigan is hardly ever visible from the Garden Peninsula's improved roads. But some beautiful public beaches are here. For people who really like to poke around, the peninsula is a relaxing, congenial place — the kind of place where you could be happy for days without going to a town big enough to have a sizable supermarket.
Here are some interesting spots, arranged from U.S. 2 at the north to the peninsula's tip.
GARDEN ORCHARDS. See separate point of interest..
The VILLAGE of GARDEN is the peninsula's hub, on M-183 about 9 miles south of U.S. 2. It's a little farming and fishing village on the way to Fayette. Garden has looked a bit like a ghost town itself in recent years. The town's onetime role as an important commercial fishing center Big Bay de Noc, a celebrated fishery, is not evident. As small farms and orchards decline, so has Garden's year-round population. Still, there's a restaurant/bar and two small groceries, an active museum, and an artists' cooperative.
A few remaining commercial fishermen take huge fall catches, mostly whitefish and lake trout, which can be purchased retail. Turn west off Van's Harbor Road just before you reach Garden and go down to the water to see the large facility of BIG BAY de NOC FISHERIES (906-644-2200). Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. if there's a catch to sell. Closed in bad weather. It's the only local fishery that sells retail, albeit in an informal way, without a real shop. Most fish is packed fresh or frozen and put on semis headed for places like Detroit, Chicago, New York, and Florida.
Many of Garden's quaint frame storefronts are empty. Cottagers and retirees bring life to the place in summer, and much more goes on than meets the eye, says enthusiastic transplant Nancy Kane, who grew up in a suburb of New York City. She and her husband, a former professor at Miami University of Ohio, became acquainted with Garden when visiting Fayette Townsite. Book groups, investment groups, a quilting circle, a very active historical society, art projects, Brown Bags — there's always something to do, she says, and such friendly, helpful people! She never fails to be thrilled by the sun setting over the bay.
VILLAGE ARTISANS and GARDEN GALLERYan attractive little art gallery and cooperative shop in the middle of downtown Garden, sells one-of-a-kind works by some 30 area artists. There are paintings in many media, photography, turned wood bowls, pottery, soaps, candles, vinegars, and knitted items. Ask about summer classes for children. Enrichment classes for area children are a big part of the mission here. The shop is open from late May into early Oct. daily from 10-5, Sun 12-5. (906) 644-2025. Wheelchair-accessible.
At the summer-only GARDEN PENINSULA HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM, a new addition will allow much more of the society's collections to be displayed. Genealogy, especially French-Canadian genealogy, is a specialty. Canada was the leading birthplace of Fayette's immigrant workers, according to the 1880 census, and they were largely French. Fishermen were frequently French, too. Ar Fayette Townsite, a display at the worker's cabin shows how the population of French Canada exploded from 60,000 in 1763 to over a million in 1871. The high birth rate eventually created a mass exodus. Open from Mem. to Labor Day, Wed-Sat 11-3 and other times by appointment. (906) 644-2398 or (906) 644-2281.
FAYETTE HISTORIC TOWNSITE See separate point of interest.
FAYETTE STATE PARK TRAILS and BEACH. See separate point of interest.
SAC BAY COUNTY PARK. This beach and picnic area are even less crowded than the state park's. The facilities are no match for those at the state park beach. But because Sac Bay is a bit farther south, there's a more interesting view, off to the string of islands between the Garden and Door peninsulas at the mouth of Green Bay. Sac Bay Park is off M-183 about five miles south of Fayette. Handicap accessible: no.
FAIRPORT. Almost at the very tip of the Garden Peninsula, Fairport is an active commercial fishing village, one of the few left in Michigan. Some old piers remain. Like most fishing villages, it has a plain, utilitarian air. Fishermen still in business today typically make good money, to the point that Fairport shows up as a higher-income blip when U.P. incomes are mapped. There's no store or restaurant here. If you look carefully on the drive out here, you can spot some houses and barns made of logs partly shingled over.
 | | Not all the Garden Peninsula’s evocative “ghost town” scenes are within the confines of the Fayette Townsite. This cemetery is just off the road to Fairport. |
Back to Manistique and the Garden Peninsula
|
|
|
|
GARDEN PENINSULA
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS
These are our choices, not ads.
|
GARDEN PENINSULA
RESTAURANTS
ROSIE'S at TYLENE'S
(906) 644-7155
After four years of standing empty, this roadside diner (next to Tylene's Motel) is again a busy area gathering place. Rosie's is known for whitefish, caught by Garden's fishery. The Friday-night fish fry is currently $10.25, Saturday's 16 oz. prime rib $16.25 (it's said to be "awesome"), both with salad bar. Leftover prime rib shows up in French dip and Philly cheese sandwiches. Lots of things are done fresh: hamburger ground by the local butcher, pasties, homemade bread at breakfast and lunch. Puffy Indian fry bread, in the dinner bread basket, is very popular. Five pieces can be ordered separately.Unusual omelettes are a breakfast hit. Lunches (including whitefish sandwiches) are from $5 to $7, dinners up to $10. Lots of specials mean variety for regulars. Rosie Pichette has cooked for many area places: her own Rosie's bar/restaurant in Garden, the casino, a golf course. Her daughter, Laura Jensen, co-owner and jack of all trades, begged her mother to cook in her new venture.
On U.S. 2 about a block west of M-183 going to Garden. Open daily, year-round. From Mem. to Labor Day 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Otherwise open 8-8, to 9 Fri & Sat. Handicap accessible. No alcohol.
GARDEN HOUSE BAR & GRILL
(906) 644-2844
Owner-manager Mike Floore reopened the Garden House and refocussed it more on food. Fresh local whitefish and sometimes perch are available any day, and as part of the all-you-can-eat Friday fish fry with salad and soup bar. Saturday's prime rib is the other house specialty ($15, king-sized $18, and $9 for "princess size", all with salad bar). Weekday prime rib sandwiches are $8, a bit more with grilled mushrooms and onions with Provolone cheese. Mike is proud of the chili and other homemade soups, like French onion baked with cheese. Deli sandwiches and fish and chicken baskets are served any time. 1919 rootbeer on draft is a big hit. A number of microbeers and imports are available.
The memorable back bar comes from Hamtramck, "the capital of the world," in the words of former owner "polack Art" Paczkowski. It dates from Hamtramck's boom times after 1910 when the Dodge Main plant opened.
On M-183 in downtown Garden. Open from 11 to 10, later on weekends (Sun from noon). Kitchen closes at 9. Handicap accessible: rear entrance. Now family-friendly. Full bar.
SHERRY'S PORT BAR & FAMILY RESTAURANT
(906) 644-2545
Opposite the entrance to Fayette State Park, Sherry's covers a lot of bases: ice cream shop, family restaurant, breakfast gathering place, and bar. The nautical theme (lighthouses, seagulls, ships) is everywhere. The garden room is non-smoking and away from the bar. Retiree prices: 2 eggs, bacon, hash browns, and toast are $4.75. The fried whitefish basket with fries and slaw is $9 at lunch. The Friday fish fry (all you can eat whitefish plus salad bar) is $10 from April thru November, 4-9 p.m., to 10 in summer. Dinners (BBQ chicken, ribs, goulash) are mostly under $13. 1/2 mile walk to park campground.
4424 II Road/M-123, 16 miles south of U.S. 2 in Garden, 6-8 miles south of Garden village. Open year-round, daily 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. Wheelchair-accessible. Family-friendly. Full bar.
|
GARDEN PENINSULA
LODGINGS
See also: Manistique, Gladstone.
GARDEN BAY MOTEL
(906) 644-2258
This 6-unit motel on Big Bay de Noc is a tremendous bargain for families, especially if they like to fish. The 2-bedroom units have been $49 a night for 2 bedrooms and a living room/kitchen with sofa. A similar unit with 1 bedroom is $40. Ask about weekly rates. The motel is a mile south of U.S. 2. There's no air-conditioning, no phones, and limited TV (2 channels), so it's a very quiet location.
Guests can use outdoor phone. No no-smoking rooms. Most people don't notice smoking odors; rooms are aired out and sprayed if neceessary.
Low lake levels mean that the shallow, sandy beach now must be reached by walking through low reeds. (Water shoes or sneakers are a good idea.) The beach itself is still a fine place for bringing a beach chair and watching the kids wade.
A big lawn is between the two buildings, and there's a bonfire pit and fish-cleaning station. Not many trees. The motel has lots of returnees in July and August, plus Sept. (fishing) and November's deer-hunting season (always reserved by regulars). Reserve ahead or get on the waiting list for cancellations.
M-183/9107 0025 Rd. 1 mile south of U.S. 2 in Garden Corners. Open year-round. Handicap access: call. Bathrooms are small. Children welcome. Well-behaved dogs welcome — extra charge.
TYLENE'S MOTEL
(906) 644-7163
This one-story, 12-room motel from about 1960 faces U.S. 2. Right across the highway is its own beach at the head of Little Bay de Noc. Rosie's at Tylene's, a good diner, is right next door. Simple rooms, pleasantly decorated and very clean, are big enough for a table and two chairs. No cable, no phone. New owners. Expect reasonable rates. Plan ahead for good summer availability. On snowmobile trail.
On U.S. 2 at Garden Corners, about a long block west of M-183. Uncertain season as we go to press. Handicap access: call. $5/extra person. Children free; call on age. Pets: call.
|
GARDEN PENINSULA
CAMPGROUNDS
FAYETTE STATE PARK
(906) 644-2603. Reservations: (800) 44-PARKS.
Campsites are near Big Bay de Noc but not quite in view of it. There's a nice breeze off the bay. 61 semi-modern campsites (with electricity but not showers, flush toilets, or dump station) are on three short loops. Water is at four locations. Brown bats eat so many insects, it's virtually bug-free. If this were a modern campground with flush toilets and showers, it would be full all summer long. Usage is increasing, and new 50 amp service to some sites ($15/night) makes it even more attractive for big RVs. Sites with 30 amp service are $13/night. Prospective visitors would be smart to make reservations for late June through mid-August and avoid a chance of not finding a spot.
The boat launch and beautiful swimming beach are just about 1/4 mile away by foot trail but a long drive around to a different entrance. The park's five-mile trail system of several loops connects the beach, campground, and Fayette Townsite. It winds through a beech-maple hardwood forest.
Fayette State Park is 17 miles south on M-183 from Garden Corners and U.S. 2. Camping open mid-May to Mid-Oct. State park sticker required: $6/day (in-state), $8 others. Yearly: $24/$29. Handicap accessible: toilets. State park and grounds of townsite are open year-round.
PORTAGE BAY CAMPGROUND/Lake
Superior State Forest
(906) 341-8463; no reservations
Portage Bay is one of Michigan's hidden treasures. Because it's part of the state forest system, it's less developed and less promoted than state parks. Its 23 large, rustic campsites ($10/night) are in mature pines just behind low dunes from a wonderfully natural, quiet sandy cove on the east side of the Garden Peninsula. Two beautiful hiking loops are interpreted with info on plants used in traditional Ojibwa life. See Points of Interest for details on its trails. Coming here is ample reward for giving up easy access and hot showers. This campground fills on summer holiday weekends and some other times in August. A few weekend sites are usually available.
From M-183 17 miles out the peninsula, past Garden, look for Portage Bay Rd. Go 6 miles east on dirt roads to the beach. (That slow drive is what keeps the crowds away.) Open from snowmelt to snowfall. Wheelchair accessible except beach area.
|
|
|
