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Region: Les Cheneaux Islands, Drummond Island & the St. Mary's River
HESSEL
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This small village is at the head of the bay by the west entrance to Les Cheneaux. Like its larger neighbor Cedarville, in the 1880s Hessel grew from a loose settlement of Indian fishermen in the area into a lumber port with a post office. Logs were brought here to be loaded onto lumber schooners in spring. Today the busiest places in town are the marina and docks, where residents of Marquette Island and the smaller nearby islands come and go to their summer homes.
The 1930s WPA guide describes Hessel as having a "simple, unstudied charm." The guidebook points out, "In earlier days, Hessel found winter the busiest season, when the air was vibrant with the noises of lumbering activity; now it is summer that brings excitement to the village, and the turning of the leaves signals the closing of at least half of its houses. On several points of land nearby, marking the sites of Indian villages, is the Indian grass, long and tough-fibered, that was worked with split ash in basket weaving, giving a peculiarly sweet, characteristic odor to the baskets."
Back to Les Cheneaux Islands, Drummond Island & the St. Mary's River
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HESSEL
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS
These are our choices, not ads.
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HESSEL
RESTAURANTS
HESSEL BAY INN
(906) 484-2460
This popular restaurant has served as the local gathering spot for years, its specialty very fresh whitefish both in sandwiches and dinners. Chef/owner James Romanuk must cater to both locals and the many affluent visitors with summer homes on the islands. So his menu is diverse, everything from scrambled eggs and eggs benedict at breakfast to goulash soup, prime rib, and lobster for dinner. A trained chef, Romanuk makes all his salads and soups from scratch. Clam chowder on Fridays is popular. Locals love his goulash soup with hamburger, green peppers, tomato, onion, and seasonings. Potato with ham and vegetable soup are also on the menu. Every Sunday breakfast there's an all-you-can-eat buffet all 8 am to 11:30.
The Inn is up a ways from the harbor, but with a water view from inside or the front deck.
From M-134 at Hessel, turn south at the blinker light and proceed to the center of Hessel. Oen daily, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., to 10 Fri & Sat. mid-April to mid-Nov. Handicap accessible. Family friendly. Full bar.
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HESSEL
LODGINGS
LAKEVIEW MOTEL & COTTAGES
(906) 484-2474
Energetic cleaning, maintenance, and ongoing little improvements are one part of what makes this vintage waterfront resort so special. The outstanding location is another. It's half a block from Hessel's harbor, grocery-deli, and attractive, convenient little downtown, but it's on a very quiet, two block street, so the private beach and lawn across Lake Street seem like an extension of the front yard. The sandy beach is for the exclusive use of Lakeview guests. It has picnic tables, grills, lawn furniture, and benches on the long boat dock, all positioned to take advantage of a fine view down Les Cheneaux's West Entrance, taking in Marquette Island and five small islands and various points in the distance. Protected water and easy beach access make this an ideal spot for kayakers.
Ten housekeeping cabins and an L-shaped 8-unit motel are behind the owner's house and office. In the grassy enclosed courtyard are a horseshoe pit, croquet court, and some picnic tables and BBQ grills. A buck pole and fish cleaning station are back by the garage, where a freezer is available for guests to use. The back porch serves as an office and informal library, with a book exchange, a phone for guests, and various toy shovels and pails waiting to be borrowed and deployed in construction projects on the sandy beach. Cribs are provided on request.
Lakeview's rooms and cottages have been built over a 40-year period, beginning with the oldest log cabins in 1925. So it's hard to generalize about them. All have covered porches and at least an angled water view. Two overlook the water. Many cabins are absolutely charming in an easygoing way, like cabin #3, with checked curtains, a handmade kitchen table and chairs, classic chenille bedspreads, and tidy little wrought iron hooks for hanging cast iron pots and pans. Some cottages are made of rustic cedar logs, and some have knotty-pine interior walls. Most have vintage porcelain bathroom fixtures. The owner-cleaner-maintenance person has a good eye for coordinating a mix of older furniture and a historic preservationist's rigorous sense of the role of little details from bygone eras in creating a comfortable been-here-forever ambiance while making necessary updates. Each cabin comes with satellite TV, gas heat, coffeemaker, and, if guest want one, a 14' aluminum fishing boat. Microwaves are in all but the two smallest cabins, whose counters are too small. Some cabins have two bedrooms, each with a double bed, some have three bedrooms, and most have a sofa sleeper or daybed in the living area. All cabins are rented by the week between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day, for $420 no matter what the size. In the off season daily cabin rentals are $75/day, no minimum required. Repeat cabin customers mean there's very little summer availability. Call a year in advance. Off-season availability is much better.
Decor in the motel rooms is less personal. Rooms with one queen are $48.50, rooms with two queens are $56.50. All rooms have firm mattresses, ceiling fans, and now satellite TV, carpeting, and in-room coffeemakers. Room interiors are knotty pine, with tongue-and-groove cedar in the bathrooms. Book motel rooms by spring or early summer for good availability. All are no-smoking rooms.
On Lake Street 1/2 block west of Pickford Avenue in Hessel. Motel and 10 cabins are open from April through deer-hunting season. Three cabins open year-round. Family and pet friendly (no pit bulls). Rates by room, not person. Wheelchair access: bathrooms too small. 1-2 steps for cabins. Motel and cabins would be OK for a walker, not a wheelchair.
SUNSET RESORT
(906) 484-3913
Six fully equipped cottages are on extensive, grassy grounds at the west end of the Hessel waterfront. There's a nice view of the islands across Hessel Bay. The location is quiet but convenient. All cottages have two bedrooms, small porches, and plain exteriors. Microwaves and cable TV/VCRs have been added. The knotty-pine interiors are fresh, clean and homey, with new carpeting and a mix of updated and older furniture. All cottages have water views, picnic tables, and charcoal grills. The dock, a small sandy beach, and a bonfire ring are across the drive. There's a volleyball net, playground, lots of space for games, and for anglers a fish-cleaning house.. Summer rates: $785/week to $815 for 2-4 people. Off-seasson rates are $75-$85/day off-season rates.
West end of Lake St. in Hessel. Open from early Mary to late Sept. Handicap accessible: call. Family friendly: 4 people/cabin. $10/extra person.
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HESSEL
CAMPGROUNDS
National Forest camping around Hessel
(906) 643-7900
National Forests allow free-of-charge dispersed camping almost anywhere you want within its boundaries. In the Hessel area there are two cleared areas near the Search Bay beach; most of the St. Martin's Point area is within the Hiawatha National Forest boundary. See camping section in introduction.
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