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HURLEY AREA POINTS OF
INTEREST
Iron County (Wisconsin) Historical Museum. The splendid 1893 courthouse here is an attraction in itself. Three floors are crowded with local artifacts. Rooms are devoted to religion, logging, and mining in the area. The volunteer staff adds interesting anecdotes of Hurley's colorful, rowdy past ...
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Iron County Farmers' Market. The area's largest farmers' market includes maple syrup and crafts along with locally-grown produce ...
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Little Finland. At this homey Finnish-American cultural center and museum, friendly tour guides share experiences of Finnish immigrants. ...
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Wisconsin Travel Information Center. Run by the state of Wisconsin's history agency, this center offers a lot more than travel info. It's an impressive mini-museum, with a focus here on the region's mining past ...
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Gogebic Range Wisconsin wayside. A picnic area with a beautiful vista of surrounding hills ...
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Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center. This dramatic comples offers information and exhibits about this region's natural world and human history. There's a boardwalk trail through a cedar and black ash wetlands and a 5th-floor observation deck with panoramic views of Lake Superior ...
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Region: Ironwood & the Gogebic Range

HURLEY AREA
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| | A portion of the stripper joints along Hurley's main drag. The town is a pale shadow of the days in the 1920s and 1930s when Hurley was one of the most raucous places in the country. | Today Hurley, Wisconsin, is a fairly placid place with a tourism-based economy. But it has nearly 30 bars, a rather unusual number for a town of 2,000. That's the only tip-off to Hurley's notorious past, unequaled in all the north woods. "Hurley, Hayward, and Hell," the saying went- though some people wonder if Cumberland shouldn't have been added to the list of lawless lumber towns. Three Hurley taverns at the bottom of Silver Street still have strippers.
Snowmobilers love Hurley because it's so snowy, so friendly, and so handy. Snowgoer magazine consistently rates it "best nightlife in the Midwest." The entire downtown is virtually on trail because the snowmobile trail is on the old railroad right of way. The railroad made Hurley boom in 1885 by connecting it with Ashland, Wisconsin, and its ore docks. The tracks ran right behind the north side of Silver Street.
"Throughout the Middle West, wherever lumberjacks and miners congregated, Hurley was known as the hell-hole of the range," stated Michigan: A Guide to the Wolverine State, the 1941 W.P.A. guide. "Even Seney, at its worst and liveliest, could not compete with the sin, suffering, and saloons that gave Hurley a reputation unrivaled from Detroit to Duluth."
From the beginning, Hurley was the wild, wide-open frontier town, in contrast to Ironwood just across the river, where mining companies based in Michigan reflected the more sober values of the eastern and Marquette interests that developed the Gogebic Range. The fledgling community of Hurley fought to preserve its autonomy by separating itself from more powerful and staid Ashland County, which it did in 1893. Hurley's elaborate courthouse with its impressive tower had already been built, in a prearranged deal.
Hurley's rough, crude past was the subject of Come and Get It ...continued below...
(1934), a popular novel by Edna Ferber, the author of Show Boat, Giant, and Stage Door. She set it during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Ferber stayed in town at the celebrated Burton House hotel, then in decline, and talked to many local people. She based the novel on fictionalized composite versions of an expansive lumber baron (said to reflect aspects of Escanaba lumber titan Bill Bonifas) and the celebrated Lotte Moore. Moore was "a well loved entertainer and lady of the evening," in the words of local historian Gene Cisewski. "In her day, the profession of high-class escort was not illegal. And when a woman carried herself with the proper comportment and discretion, the profession wasn't even frowned upon too seriously." Lotte was murdered in 1890, perhaps because she had witnessed a bank robbery.
In the sanitized but still enjoyable 1936 film version of Come and Get It, Lotta (played by Frances Farmer, now a cult figure, in her most noted role) reforms, marries, and has a daughter who marries the son of the lumberman who deserted her.
Ferber described the fictionalized Hurley as "a sordid enough town. . . , with all the vices and crudeness of the mining camps of an earlier day, but with few of their romantic qualities. Lumber and iron were hard masters to serve. A cold, hard country of timber and ore. . . . A rich and wildly beautiful country, already seared and ravaged. . . . Encircling the town were the hills and ridges that had once been green velvety slopes, tree shaded. Now the rigs and shafts of the iron mines stalked upon them with never a tree or blade of grass to be seen." Local people say that Come and Get It has little to do with the truth, but it's a good read and a memorable movie, often available through inter-library loan. Ferber, who was Jewish, did her research in Hurley but took offense to perceived local anti-Semitism, left town, and finished the novel at Bill Bonifas's cottage on Lake Gogebic.
A colorful true story from more recent times concerns a judge who ran a strip joint in which the stripper used a boa constrictor in her act. One fateful time she battered a heckling customer with it. Not long after that, the fire department got a call about a fire there, but arrived to find no smoke. Four or so hours later the place burned.
Hurley ignored all limitations on the sale of alcohol, up to and including Prohibition, passed in 1919. Stories of protracted conflicts between federal agents and local people are told during the Living History tour of Hurley taverns held during the Iron County Heritage Festival in late July and early August. For times, call (715) 561-5310 or look in at www.ironcountywi.com
The lower block of Silver Street dates from the Prohibition years, when a mining company decided to subdivide it and sell it off. Nearly 200 saloons, disguised as soda shoppes, lined downtown's streets. When Chicago gangsters established resorts and gambling rackets in northern Wisconsin mining and lumber towns, Hurley was a favorite place to relax and recreate. Al Capone never could figure out how to make inroads into Hurley's well-established business in illegal booze. He is said to have been a regular visitor; his brother Ralph ran several businesses in nearby Mercer and died in a Hurley nursing home.
Strip clubs are less artistically erotic and more crudely sexual than 50 years ago, and a small place like Hurley can't pay big-time performers. Compared to metro areas, local strip clubs are said to be tame. And patrons can't break the rules about physical contact, or the police will be called.
These Hurley bars stand out in terms of general interest: • FREDDIE'S OLD-TIME SALOON and HALL OF FAME is full of sports memorabilia. The thick, bulletproof walls from Prohibition days aren't evident to visitors. 411 Silver St. (715) 561-5020. • THE IRON NUGGET CASUAL FOOD & DRINK has a dining area that's a virtual museum of local iron mining. 404 Silver St. (715) 561-9800. • MAHOGANY RIDGE feels like it's an original tavern from the 1890s, but it really dates from the early 1920s. Visually it's far and away the most striking of Hurley's taverns. The heavy, ornate back bar is said to have been carved by Scandinavians from the Keweenaw Peninsula. Said to get rowdy as the evening goes on, but it's a placid place in the daytime. (It opens at 9 a.m.) 29 Silver St. (715) 561-4414. • Daytime pedestrians and sightseers may find more of interest at the HURLEY COFFEE COMPANY, a cheerful, light-filled coffeehouse and internet cafe with ice cream cones, soup and sandwiches, coffees and mugs, teas and teapots, cards and gifts. 122 Silver St. at Second/U.S. 1. (715)561-5500. Open 7 days from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Handicap accessible.
Back to Ironwood & the Gogebic Range
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HURLEY AREA
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS

These are our choices, not ads.

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HURLEY AREA RESTAURANTS
See also: Ironwood, Bessemer.

FONTECCHIO'S BELL CHALET
(715) 561-3753.

Of all Hurley's historic saloons, the place that today draws visitors from far and wide is Fontecchio's Bell Chalet, now expanded many, many times into a rambling and very popular Italian eating and drinking place. It scores for its pizzas and homemade pasta, its affordable prices, and its friendly, fun atmosphere. The copper-surfaced bar in front is what greets guests - that and garlicky scents of cooking - but this is definitely a place for families as much as for convivial groups of adults up for a ski weekend. The dining room is smoke-free. Lunch entrées are from $5 to $7, dinners from $7.35 to $16.95 (for homemade linguini with seafood or shrimp). Rib-eye steaks are under $16, N.Y. strips under $19. (All prices from 2004.) A large pizza with five toppings is $12.20. Pizzas get shipped all over in winter, weather depending. Reservations are often a good idea.

On Fifth at Division, a block north of Silver Street. Mon-Thurs 11-2 and 5-10. Fri & Sat 5 p.m. to 10:30. Pizza served until 11:30, 12:30 on weekends. Wheelchair accessible. Family-friendly. Full bar.
KIMBALL INN
(715) 561-4095

World cuisine meets northwoods dining at the Kimball Inn, now that Chicago-trained Gabriel Lagalo has joined his father and introduced specials like feta-crusted chicken pasta with black olive pesto sauce ($11 in 2004), steak au poivre with horseradish mashed potatoes, and classic Spanish paella. The fireplace and pine paneling makes for a cozy ambiance at this former tavern. Today the dining room is smoke-free; smoking permitted in the lounge. Vegetarian and children's food upon request. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends.

On U.S. 2, four miles west of Hurley. Open Tues-Sun 4-11. Wheelchair accessible. Full bar. Family-friendly.
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HURLEY AREA LODGINGS
See also: Ironwood, Bessemer, Black River Harbor, Wakefield.

ANTON-WALSH HOUSE
(715) 561-2065; anton-walsh.com

The B&B, in a solid foursquare house from 1896, offers a comfortable downtown home base and an outstanding in-house information resource on local history, attractions, and government. The carefully restored interior won an award from the Wisconsin Trust for Historic Preservation. The dining room has a coffered ceiling and Craftsman-style wainscoting and built-in sideboard. Breakfasts often include regional foods and dishes. The three upstairs guest rooms, all air-conditioned, with private baths, are $99-$129 in ski season, $89-$99 otherwise. Ask about midweek specials. Wi-fi internet throughout. The well-stocked upstairs guest library has cable TV, a shared phone, fridge with soft drinks. Smoking is allowed only on the deck or in the library if the doors are closed and the HEPA filter is turned on. There's a big front porch and a peaceful back garden with arbor grapevine. Innkeeper Gene Cisewski became the youngest Ironwood city commissioner in 1979. (His local roots, Polish on one side, Mayflower WASP on the other, were an asset.) He went off to Washington, D.C. to work on term limits and medical marijuana, then came back to open this inn and get involved again in civic affairs. Now he's Hurley Historical Society president and serves on the governor's council on tourism and joint effort marketing. Gene is a Libertarian, and he has no vehicle. March, 2008

202 Copper St. (parallels Silver St. one block south) in downtown Hurley. Not handicapped-accessible. Not suited to small children. Works out well with older kids and teens when a family takes the whole house. No pets.
THE INN AT MONTREAL
(715) 561-5180; theinnbedandbreakfast.com

The Montreal Mining Company's original 1913 office has become a wonderfully warm, tastefully homey inn. Designed with skiers in mind, it's also well suited to visitors in other seasons, especially bicyclists. Except for Hwy. 77, the village of Montreal is free of traffic. Mountain bikers can have immediate access to the Pines and Mines mountain bike trail system. Advice is provided on bicycle outings suited to guests' abilities and interests. Doree Schumacher, innkeeper with her husband, Dick, has created a look that plays off plain oak woodwork with autumn-toned quilts and simple crocheted window curtains done by Dick's mother. The Schumachers discovered Montreal in the 1970s, when their sons skied with the U.S. Ski Association at area ski hills. Dick was then the intramural sports director at the University of Wisconsin/Oshkosh. A hearty country breakfast is served at 3 round tables in the big gathering room. Sofas and a brick and cast-iron heater make a comfortable sitting area. Doree loves to share the area's history. Hot chocolate and baked goods are served on winter afternoons. Skiers and bicyclists can unwind in the sauna. There's a TV room and a guest phone. No TVs in rooms; many couples and many families love that. Rooms are furnished with books, old prints, mining memorabilia, and family antiques of oak, pine, and maple. In each of 3 units, a bath is shared by 2 bedrooms, each with a double bed. The open loft unit is well suited to 2 families with their children; there are beds for 6 upstairs, with a partial wall and staircase connecting to 2 downstairs bedrooms. Rates for 2 are $78. Cost per extra person is $25. Many guests book winter weekends from year to year, but cancellations are always possible. Midweek and off-season availability is better. No smoking. March, 2008

103 Wisconsin/Hwy. 77, north side of road, in central Montreal. No credit cards. Family-friendly. Wheelchair access: ground floor.
WHITECAP MOUNTAIN RESORT
(800) 933-7669; (715) 561-2227; skiwhitecap.com, skyegolf.net

This full-service resort, family owned and managed by people who like good food, has done more to build year-round business than other resorts in the area. 43 downhill ski trails, 7 chair lifts, 2 rope tows spread across 3 mountains with a vertical descent of 400 feet, this is a major destination for skiers, catering especially to families with children, for whom there are a variety of beginner trails and instruction opportunities. Winter visitors can also use the resort's indoor pool with hot tub area. In summer the scenery is also beautiful. There's an 18-hole golf course. On spring-fed Weber Lake, a no-wake lake, there's swimming and fishing for trout, bass, and panfish. Rowboats and paddleboats are for rent. Nearby Wisconsin waterfalls are another attraction. In winter, guests can eat either in the cafeteria or Whitecap Inn, where N.Y. strip steaks and chicken cordon bleu are two popular entrées. Guest rooms are in the lodge, in chalets, and in condos. Wi-fi throughout. Winter rates (Thanksgiving to mid-March) are highest, of course. Lodge rooms sleeping 2-6 range from $95 to $185 weekdays, $105 to $225 weekends/holidays. Chalets sleeping up to 4 are $160-$370 weekdays, $245-$535 weekends/holidays. Much lower rates spring, summer and fall up to Thanksgiving. No smoking except in some condo units. Condos for up to 16 cost the most. Some, like the Davos Swiss Inn, have a central gathering place with satellite TV for sports events. With 20 bedrooms, 10 on each floor, the Davos sleeps up to 40. March, 2008

13 miles west of Ironwood, just north of Upson, Wisconsin. Wheelchair accessible. Full bar in restaurant. Pets: call.
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HURLEY AREA CAMPGROUNDS
See also Ironwood camping, Little Girl's Point; Bessemer, Black River Harbor, Wakefield, Porcupine Mountains State Park.

SAXON HARBOR COUNTY PARK
(715) 892-2242;

in the off season (715) 561-2697; www.ironcountywi.com On a beach near the Montreal River mouth, Saxon Harbor consists of a county park, marina, and the Harbor Lights Bar & Restaurant. Several waterfalls including the spectacular Superior Falls are nearby. The semi-modern campground (over 15 sites) is a grassy area surrounded by trees. It adjoins a picnic area with pavilion, swimming beach, and new playground. Campsites have electricity but no water. Flush toilets, no showers. There is a pump-out station. First-come, first-served. Charter fishing, fishing info, and overnight dockage is available through the restaurant/marina (715-892-2242). $9/night plus $2/night for 30 amp service, $4/night for 50 amp. First-come, first-served. Campsites fill on holidays and some summer weekends. Come by Thursday and you'll probably get a spot.

From U.S. 2 at Saxon, about 12 miles west of Hurley, go north about four miles on Hwy. 122, turn left on CR A. Also reachable from CR 505 and Little Girl's Point in Michigan. Open from Mem. Day into October. Handicap access: call.
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