
The Keweenaw is also called "Copper Country" for its glory days when it was the world chief supplier of that important metal. The many mines here drew tens of thousands of European immigrants, especially from Finland, Italy and the Balkans. Their cultures have added exotic foreign touches to a place already full of striking features.
| | The unusual lift bridge between Houghton and Hancock. It's the only way vehicles can cross the Portage Waterway separating the northern Keweenaw from the rest of the U.P. Here you see it in up position as the Ranger III passes underneath on her way to Isle Royale. | Keweenaw is Ojibwa for "place of the crossing," referring to a shortcut, a natural waterway that sliced almost entirely through the peninsula, passing between today's Hancock and Houghton. It allowed Indians in canoes to avoid the peninsula's tip, shielded from Lake Superior's ferocious storms. Traveling west from Keweenaw Bay, Ojibwa canoes went across this Portage Waterway, then made a short portage to Lake Superior south of present-day McLain State Park.
In 1873, after massive amounts of copper began to be shipped from the region, the Portage Canal was cut through the remaining two miles of land. The canal made an island of the peninsula's northernmost part. Most of the old copper mines and the area's most scenic attractions reside there. The upper Keweenaw is linked to the rest of the U.P. only by the impressive lift bridge between Houghton and Hancock.
Today this area is a very special place for lovers of nature and wild places, for rockhounds and geologists, for kayakers, and for fans of historic architecture and cultural history. It's a world quite different from the rest of the Midwest.
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| | Based on Tauno Kilpela's "The Native Copper Mining Era of the Keweenaw Copper Country." This fascinating map is available at Copper World in Calumet. | | Although hundreds of shafts were dug across the Keweenaw, over 94% of the mined copper came from this little 3x26 mile strip from the modern copper mining era's beginning in 1846 until its end in 1968. | A thousand million years ago, repeated volcanic eruptions deposited mineral-rich lava that forms a rocky spine along the Keweenaw's central axis. Today forests soften the jutting spine of hard, dark rock. But occasional dramatic rocky outcrops are visible to motorists along M-26 and U.S. 41. These highways follow the Keweenaw's rugged fault line from Mass City (in Ontonagon County to the south) to Copper Harbor at the Keweenaw's northern tip.
The ultimate place to take in the breath-taking sweep of this uplift is at the top of Brockway Mountain Drive near Copper Harbor. There you can see the rocky spine extend for many miles and tilt down into Lake Superior. On a clear day, Isle Royale, out in Superior at the other rim of the volcanic basin, can be seen almost 50 miles away.
Those ancient eruptions brought copper to the surface - masses of pure copper in some areas. For hundreds of years Native American miners mined these surface deposits and worked the copper into prized ornaments and tools. These prehistoric products of Keweenaw copper have been found as far away as the Gulf of Mexico.
| | Don Hunt | | Next to the scenic turn-out on US-41 heading north out of Hancock scavergers sell fragments of copper they've found around abandoned mine sites. Most are only a few dollars. The wonderful old pure copper ingots the mining companies shipped far and wide now sell for several hundred dollars. | Early French, British, and American expeditions learned about the copper locations from the Ojibwa they met. In the 1840s and 1850s, American investors from the East Coast and Lower Michigan started mining the metal, the demand for which began to soar as indoor plumbing and electricity grew in importance. At that time the remote region was well beyond any other American settlements. To supply the mines, export the copper, and feed the miners required lengthy and often treacherous Great Lakes boat shipments.
But the demand was so great that by the 1870s this wild, snowy region was settled and shipping billions of pounds of pure copper in hefty ingots . Mining companies had created a string of mining towns along the two-to-eight-mile-wide fault from Copper Harbor to Houghton. It was dangerous and unpleasant work for those who toiled long shifts down dark shafts, some of which extended almost two miles deep. That depth spelled the eventually doom of Keweenaw mining. Huge deposits of copper remain here, but for decades it has been much cheaper to strip mine the ore, first in Montana and Arizona, now in places like Chile, Australia, and Peru.
| | Don Hunt | | Keweenaw's iconic snow thermometer, a way of almost bragging about the humungous amount of snow that blows off Lake Superior, approaching 400 inches some years. | Beginning in the 1860s the demand for Keweenaw copper was so great that Eastern owners of the most successful Keweenaw mines had to recruit workers from Europe to work in their mines. The Cornish, seasoned miners from the spent-out tin mines of Cornwall in southwestern England, were mining professionals who accepted its risks with stoicism and a measure of fatalism. They typically rose to management ranks. Other ethnic groups disliked working underground and got out of mining when they could get better jobs, working above-ground in stamping mills or smelters, or getting a small business or farm. The mining companies' corporate paternalism, apparently generous and high-minded, came to be seen by workers as arrogant and manipulative, with good reason. Thus mining companies had to find fresh generations of underground workers from new waves of poor immigrants without prospects. After the Cornish came the Irish, Germans, and Scots, then various Scandinavians including the earlier wave of Finns, followed by Italians, Slovenians, Hungarians, Croatians, and more Finns after 1900.
| | Don Hunt | | Forests dominate Keweenaw's landscape, but small patches of hayfields and pastureland remain. Houghton County was actually once the state’s leading potato producer. Many dairy farms operated as late as the 1980s until Copper Country Dairy folded (3 dairy farms remain). Pelkie had an active farmers’ co-op and Paulding was home to a beef association. Having a farm was the dream of many of the Europeans who immigrated to work in the copper mines. They established farmsteads as soon as they could buy land. But the rocky soil and short growing season have caused a steady decline in farming over the past half century. Now hayfields predominate the meager agriculatural scene up here With one cutting a year in the Keweenaw versus two or three for acreage elsewhere, it's tough. | Finns became the largest immigrant group and today give the western U.P. much of its distinctive character, from the still-common Finnish accent to the many backyard saunas in the region. Copper Country is the Finnish-American heartland for hundreds of thousands of far-flung Finns scattered from Massachusetts to Montana and Arizona. Hancock is home to the only American college with Finnish roots, formerly Suomi College, now Finlandia University.
After reaching its peak around the beginning of the 20th century, Copper mining died slowly here. The last mines closed in 1968. But competition from Western U.S. mines meant that Keweenaw copper was already declining by the time of the bitter 1913 strike. It was brought about by workers' resentment of mining companies' efficiency measures to maintain profits in the face of rising costs. As mining declined, Copper Country became more and more a depressed backwater. Many went off to earn their fortunes elsewhere.
| | Don Hunt | | One of the most delightful state rest stops is on the south side of US-41 10 miles west of Michigame and 7 miles east of the US-141 junction. In addition to toilets and picnic tables, a short path winds down to the briskly moving still-small Sturgeon River which eventually empties into Keweenaw Bay all the way up near Chassell. | Big money was made in Keweenaw copper, especially between 1890 and 1905, creating fortunes for the fortunate shareholders of the few mines that proved highly profitable. Some copper money stayed in the Keweenaw, in ornate buildings like the Calumet Theatre, downtown business blocks, and large Victorian homes owned by well-to-do mine managers and business people. But most of the money went east to Boston. While the money made here helped build the coffers of wealthy institutions like Harvard University and the Boston Symphony, relatively few Keweenaw families became part of America's growing upper middle class.
| | A common sight in the western half of the U.P. Experts say the forests continue to grow larger, but you wouldn't know it from the volume of logs being hauled to paper and saw mills. | Just south of the Keweenaw is the different world of Baraga County, one more thinly populated and much less developed than the Keweenaw. One can drive or snowmobile here and see nothing but forests for miles. It includes the Huron Mountains (Michigan's highest land), the Sturgeon River Gorge (Michigan's deepest valley) and also lots of old Finnish farming country around the villages of Covington, Pelkie, Aura, and even the high ground of Herman, often Michigan's cold spot.
Baraga County claims the oldest (1854) and largest (54,000 acres) Indian reservation in Michigan, a complicated patchwork of ownership and jurisdiction centered around the tribal headquarters. There former tribal leader Fred Dakota started a fateful bingo game in his garage that led to the legalization of Indian gambling in Michigan. Today the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community, with over 3,000 members, has become a driving force in the local economy - along with the Baraga supermax prison, built in 1993 outside Baraga. The tens of millions of dollars the Ojibwa Casino in Baraga has raked in since the 1990s has quickly created a big economic splash. The tribe now owns two radio stations, a tire company, a construction company, and agas station/convenience store.
The south shore of Lake Superior had been a natural north-south route for the Ojibwa people in the centuries before European settlement. Attracted by the good fishing and protected Keweenaw and L'Anse Bays, some Ojibwa from the Sugar Island band at Sault Ste. Marie had moved into the area by 1660.
| | Along an isolated stretch of Jacobsville Rd, this folkloric bar was once a popular destination for passenger boats. | Many Finns have intermarried with Ojibwa members of the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community, creating new generations of so-called "Finndians" who may have blond hair or blue eyes. It's not such an improbable combination, considering how in these parts both groups share a closeness to the land and love of fishing, hunting, and the woods. Baraga and L'Anse schools may be unique in providing enrichment classes in both Ojibwa and Finnish. Residents with French blood are almost as common as the Finns. About a third of county residents claim some Native American ancestry, not always Ojibwa. French, Ojibwa, and other Catholics are numerous, too, and the impressive granite Sacred Heart Church on the Sixth Street hill going into L'Anse is the area's most striking historic building.
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HELPFUL AREA INFORMATION
TO FIND OUT MORE For the L'Anse-Baraga-Skanee-Huron Mountains/Covington area, contact the Baraga County Tourist & Recreation Association at (800) 743-4908, (906) 524-7444, or www.baragacountytourism.com . Its L'Anse office, clearly signed, is at 755 E. Broad at U.S. 41, open weekdays from 9 to 5. Its helpful, obliging director, Tracey Barrett, goes out of her way to share her wealth of local knowledge with a very wide variety of visitors. Information is mailed, and e-mail queries are answered. In addition to stocking an unusual variety of free publications, phone books, etc., the office itself is the best place around to purchase local history books on Baraga County communities. Keweenaw and Houghton counties are now served by two organizations, in one of those complicated local political disputes that can pop up. The more established place, whose staff is experienced in area tourism, is the Calumet office in on U.S. 41 at the light (Lake Linden Road), now known as the Keweenaw Conventiono & Visitors' Bureau (906-337-4579; 800-338-7982). Supported by lodging room taxes, it publicizes all lodgings and attractions, rather than members only. The office is open year-round, from mid-June into September and again in fall color season weekdays from 9 to 6, Saturdays 9-5. Off-season hours are Mon-Fri 9-5. well stocked with travel info and some mineral specimens, maps, and a few local history books for sale. Its helpful, well-organized color visitor guide is mailed upon request. A full list with directions of every local park and picnic area - very helpful to keep in your glovebox - is in the separate "Summer Outdoor Adventure Guide." The well-organized web site, www.keweenaw.info , has excellent annotated lists with directions for cemeteries, ghost towns, lighthouses, non-motorized areas, waterfalls, scenic drives, local parks and picnic areas, and more. . . . . Now that the Keweenaw Council Chamber of CommerceE (906-482-5240; 866-304-5722; www.keweenaw.org ) has split off from the CVB, it has its own visitor office on U.S. 41/College Avenue just coming in to downtown Houghton. Hours are Mon-Fri 9-5:30. As a membership organization, it publicizes only its members. The Copper Harbor Improvement Association publishes a helpful area map, available at local businesses. Its website is www.copperharbor.org . ? Rock and mineral-related web sites, some quite outstanding, are easily entered via the links at www.copperconnection.com . Keweenaw Gem and Gift (906-482-8447) on the Houghton commercial strip of M-26 is the handiest walk-in source of maps and colleting info for rockhounds.
PUBLIC LAND South of M-38 (the highway from Baraga to Ontonagon) are large areas of public land, mostly in the Ottawa National Forest. Campgrounds are on the Sturgeon River near a wilderness area and on several small lakes. Weekdays you can call or stop at the Ottawa district office in on M-28 in Kenton (906-852-3501; TTY: 906-852-3618). Basic info is at www.fs.fed.us/r9/ottawa/ .
Scattered areas of state land, including several campgrounds, are part of the Copper Country State Forest. State land is near Twin Lakes and in southern Baraga County. Also, Big Eric's Bridge Campground near Skanee is in a beautiful, remote area near the Huron River mouth, the Huron Mountains, and several waterfalls. Visit www.michigandnr.com/parksandtrails for campground and trail locations. For additional info or to buy hunting or fishing licenses, call or stop by the DNR Baraga office on U.S. 41 about half a mile north of M-38 (east side of road). It's open weekdays from 8 to 5. (906) 353-6651. The locator map of state forest campgrounds and trails in the Upper Peninsula is good for on-the-road travel decisions. Call for one, or pick it up at a Michigan Welcome Center. North of the Portage Waterway most developed state land is part of McLain State Park and Fort Wilkins State Park. Plans are not yet final for how to use the new state land at the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula.
GUIDES, CHARTERS, RENTALS, and OUTDOORS STORES Fisher Price Charters (906-523-0044) based in Skanee offers Lake Superior fishing charters to area fishing hot spots and to Stannard Reef, an outstanding lake trout fishery 50 miles north of Marquette . . . Fred's Charters (906-482-0884) is based in Copper Harbor. ? The 110-foot Keweenaw Star (906-482-0884) offers 2 1/2-hour cruises of the Keweenaw Waterway from Dee Stadium in Houghton, alternately to the North Entry by McLain State Park and the Lower Entry by Jacobsville. It leaves evenings at 7, after Labor Day at 6 p.m. Tickets are $18, $10 for ages 5 to 12, or $36 for the Thursday dinner cruise (reservations preferred). . . . Sunset cruises on the Isle Royale Queen IV leave Copper Harbor at 8:30 p.m. in July and August. Call (800) 949-2026. Indian Country Sports on the L'Anse harbor covers the bases from fishing and hunting to canoeing, kayaking, and camping. Steve Koski is extremely knowledgeable about the area. Call (906) 524-6518. Keweenaw Adventure Company in Copper Harbor rents kayaks and mountain bikes and leads kayak and mountain bike tours to rugged, roadless areas between Copper Harbor and Keweenaw Point. This extremely scenic, little-known area is the geological mirror of Isle Royale, with sea stacks and 600' cliffs. Call (906) 289-4303 or stop by the shop in downtown Copper Harbor. . . . In downtown Houghton, Down Wind Sports at 303 Shelden Avenue rents cross-country skis, kayaks, and snowshoes at very reasonable rates, and fields questions about many area sports. (906) 482-2500. . . . Rick Oikarinen at Cross Country Sports at 506 Oak between Fifth and Sixth in Calumet, a leader in area bicycling and cross-country skiing, rents cross-country skis and snowshoes. Call (906) 337-4520.
EVENTS HIGHLIGHTS Consult www.baragacountytourism.com and www.Keweenaw.info for more complete events listings or call Baraga County Tourist & Recreation and Keweenaw CVB for details.. . . Varied Thursday-evening summer concerts are at L'ANSE's waterfront park and at LAURIUM's Daniell Park on Third at Pewabic. . . . Covington puts on a big Finnish Music Festival on July 3 for 2005 . . . . The AURA Jamboree - traditional-flavored acoustic music - is the third Saturday of July. . . . The Keweenaw Bay Indian Community's powwow in BARAGA is on the first weekend of August. . . . Chassel's big event is the Strawberry Festival on the second weekend of July. . . . Michigan Tech in HOUGHTON has events throughout the school year; visit www.mtu.edu and look for "entertainment" for its calendar. The Rozsa Center for the Performing Arts box office is (906) 487-3200. The Parade of Nations in late September is a fun international event with food from many countries and participation from Tech's sizable international community. . . . Bridgefest on the third weekend in June kicks off the summer in Houghton and Hancock. . . . . Finlandia University in HANCOCK hosts occasional music groups from Finland. Call North Wind Books, 906-487-7217 or try visiting www.finlandia.edu . . . . The Fourth of July is a big homecoming event with parades in SOUTH RANGE, Lake Linden, and DOLLAR BAY. Fireworks over the harbor at Copper Harbor are in a spectacular natural setting. . . . The Pine Mountain Music Festival has expanded into much of June and July, with high-caliber classical and other music, including two operas, at Houghton's Rozsa Center and in the Calumet Opera House. Call (877-746-3999) or visit www.pmmf.org . . . . Rocks and minerals take center stage at the Copper Country Rock and Mineral Club's Keweenaw Week in early August. See www.geo.mtu.edu/museum/ . . . . Art in the Garden, the Community Arts Center's big summer fundraiser, changes dates for different blooming seasons but always takes visitors to beautiful varied Copper Country gardens. The freewheeling yard art and wildflower component is fun and refreshing. Call (906) 482-2333. . . The July 22-23 and September 24 Keweenaw Lighthouse Tours offer a day-long cruise around all 10 Keweenaw lighthouses. The August 6-7 tour includes Isle Royale. Call (906) 482-0884. . . . . In Calumet the historic Calumet Theatre produces a historical play each summer and hosts many national musical acts; call (906) 337-2610 or visit www.calumettheater.org . . . . The village of Calumet's Pasty Fest with games, ethnic food, and a parade, is July 2, 2005 . . . Keweenaw Krayons Arts Alive brings summer music and more to MOHAWK, Eagle Harbor, and Copper Harbor. Visit www.keweenawkrayons.com or ask around locally. . . . Copper Harbor's website, www.copperharbor.org , details its many special-interest events. Fort Wilkins bustles with the Civil War encampment on the first weekend of August.
HARBORS with transient dockage The L'Anse marina has a few overnight slips but no harbormaster. . . . . In Baraga (906-353-9916; off season 906-353-6237; lat. 46° 46' 39" N, 88° 28' 48" W) with showers. . . . On the Keweenaw Waterway in Coordinates for the Keweenaw Waterway: Upper Entry near McLain State Park: lat. 47° 14' 08" N, long. 88° 37' 50" W. Lower Entry near Chassel: lat. 46° 57' 40" W. In Ripley/Hancock (906-482-6010; off-season 482-8307) the marina has showers. Downtown Houghton has moorings meant for day-use only. . . . . In Eagle Harbor (906-289-4416; alt. 906-289-4215; lat 47° 27' 52" N, long. 88° 09' 33" W) the marina has showers. . . . . In Copper Harbor (906-289-4966; alt. 906-289-4215; lat. 47° 28' 42" N, long. 87° 51' 50" W) there are showers, picnic tables. . . . In Lac La Belle (906-289-4215; lat. 47° 22' 30" N, long. 87° 57' 40" W). . . . On Grand Traverse Bay of the Keweenaw's south shore (twp. phone 906-296-8721; lat. 47° 11' 18" N, long. 88° 14' 00" W).
PICNIC PROVISIONS and PLACES Pat's Foods on U.S. 41 in L'Anse is a competent supermarket. So is Larry's Market on U.S. 41 in Baraga. ? In Houghton Jim's Food Mart off U.S. 41 by the MTU campus and Wells Fargo bank is convenient, manageable, and unusual, with imported food for foreign students and a good beer and wine selection. . . . Excellent bread and sandwiches are at The Bakery (see Houghton Restaurants). Copper Country's big supermarkets, all with good produce sections, are Festival Foods and Econo Foods on the M-26 strip in Houghton, Pat's Foods off U.S. 41 on Hancock's Quincy Hill, another Pat's in Calumet on the Sixth Street Extension just west of U.S. 41, and Louie's Super Valu on M-26 between Lake Linden and Hubbell. ? In Keweenaw County the Mohawk Superette on U.S. 41 is a small grocery with fresh meat and produce. In Copper Harbor the Gas Lite General Store does a good job for the end of the line, and offers fresh meat in summer. Jamsen's Fish Market (seasonal) is by the Isle Royale ferry dock. Truly gourmet takeout fare is available in HOUGHTON at Victoria's Kitchen (formerly Marie's Deli) and in Hancock at the Keweenaw Co-op, with its famous deli with meats, cheeses, and salads, and its outstanding beer and wine selection. Fresh whitefish or lake trout is easy to grill. Peterson's Fish Market is outside Hancock, (482-2343), easy to find on U.S. 41 on Quincy Hill. ? Just south of Alberta on U.S. 41, Canyon Falls Roadside Park is a first-class picnic area near a beautiful woodland walk to a waterfall. The L'Anse Waterfront Park downtown has it all: picnic area, great view, play equipment, and path to nearby waterfalls. If you stop at Baraga County Tourism on U.S. 41 and ask its director, she can direct you to other appealing spots that fit in with your plans. ? Alongside the Baraga County Historical Museum on U.S. 41 in Baraga are picnic tables with a fine view of Keweenaw Bay. ? Just north of the Community of Keweenaw Bay, the Michigan Department of Transportation roadside park by U.S. 41 has beautiful bay view. Chassell's Centennial Park off U.S. 41 also has a swimming beach on Portage Lake. ? Houghton's waterfront has pretty, improved picnic areas behind the Super 8 on Lakeshore Drive, Bridgeview Park on the downtown waterfront behind the Ambassador and Surplus Outlet, and by the chutes and ladders playground by Houghton Beach. For the beach, look for the road along the water where M-26 turns and begins to go up the hill. McLain State Park west of Hancock on M-203 has two beautiful picnic areas in natural settings, near the waterfront with sunset views over the lake. ? Lake Linden's waterfront park and picnic area lacks shade but offers swimming and a playground. ? Off U.S. 41 at Phoenix a picnic table is by the little church. ? In Eagle Harbor, a most scenic picnic area is on a sunny, rocky promontory next to the Eagle River Lighthouse. M-26 between Eagle Harborand COPPER HARBOR has two of the most charming picnic spots anywhere - masterpieces of 1930s picturesque rustic design, they were Civilian Conservation Corps projects on especially beautiful stretches of rocky shore. Esrey Park comes first, five or six miles east of Eagle Harbor. A way's farther, just three miles west of Copper Harbor, is Hebard Park. Both parks have tables and grills. Just east of Copper Harbor, part of Fort Wilkins State Park, is a delightful picnic area where Fanny Hooe Creek enters the harbor, opposite the Copper Harbor Lighthouse. Coming down the steep hill from U.S. 41 to Lac la Belle, turn right at the lake and in half a mile you'll see Haven Falls to your right. Here Haven Park has picnic tables and grills. On the Gay-Lac La Belle Road, Brunette Park on Lake Superior had a sandy beach and picnic area. The Tobacco River Park near GAY itself is on the river. For an even fuller view of local parks and picnic areas, visit www.keweenaw.info or pick up the "Summer Outdoor Adventure Guide" at the Keweenaw CVB on U.S. 41 at Lake Linden Road in Calumet. Mark these hidden treasures on a reference map or the large-format DeLorme Michigan Atlas & Gazetteer, and you'll be set for lots of backroads adventures.
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