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The online version of the popular regional travel book
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Hunts' Guide to Michigan's UPPER PENINSULA
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A candid guide to enjoying and understanding the U.P.
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MARQUETTE
POINTS
OF INTEREST

Downtown Marquette. A major U.P. destination for people who like to shop, nibble, drink coffee, dine, and explore interesting downtowns. Stroll past ornate buildings, a historic hotel, many restaurants, a classic department store, an 1883 saloon ... more

Marquette County History Museum. Choice artifacts, some life-sized exhibits with audio, and a good gift shop make this stand out. See an Ojibwa family group,the Burt survey party, a child-scale street of shops ... more

Peter White Library. A dream library renovated and expanded through community visioning: restored 1904 reading rooms, an exhibit gallery, a children's room designed by kids, a community art gallery and shop, and a café/coffee bar with fresh Greek specialties ... more

Ridge and Arch Historic District. A well-maintained neighborhood of historic homes in a variety of late 19th-century styles, and two richly detailed red sandstone churches with unusual stained glass windows, one by Tiffany ... more

Upper Peninsula Heritage Center

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Former NMU President Bill Vandement wanted the Superior Dome to be about more than sports. He teamed up with history professor Russell Magnaghi (developer of NMU's Center for Upper Peninsula Studies) to create the ambitious Upper Peninsula Heritage Center. It's housed in The Dome's outer concourse and open without charge. Each display window is over 30 feet long and 10 feet deep. Russ solicited donations from celebrated U.P. people and their families, who were astonishingly generous with artifacts and papers.

"Legends of the Upper Peninsula" honors legendary lawyer-author and trout fisherman JOHN VOELKER (a.k.a. Robert Traver). Here is a model of his cherished fishing camp, and the desk where he wrote Anatomy of a Murder. Also represented are the late State Representative DOMINIC JACOBETTI of Negaunee, patron saint of the U.P. for all the regional projects he funded during his long career; Marquette watercolorist NITA ENGLE, winner of the prestigious American Watercolor Society artist of the year award; and 1951 Nobel Prizewinning nuclear chemist GLENN SEABORG (1912 to 1999) Son of a Swedish railroad mechanic, he lived in Ishpeming until the age of 10, when his family moved to California. His influence was enormous for most of the 20th century. He co-discovered transuranium elements numbered 94 to 102, advised 10 U.S. presidents, became chancellor of the U. of California at Berkeley, and advocated for science education until his death. (His mother had advised him to go into bookkeeping. He owed his illustrious career to one high school science teacher.)

Other exhibit cases feature "NMU Sports Championships," "The Natural World of the Upper Peninsula" (the mineral specimens are beautiful), and "Upper Peninsula Ethnic Groups," illustrated with riveting historic photographs in front of a wall of flags representing countries which produced many U.P. immigrants.

But the display of animals native to the Upper Peninsula is the popular favorite. Rob Aho of the DNR often donates animal remains. He'd like to display all U.P. native animals. A special case has been constructed for a mounted moose found as roadkill. He is a very large animal even though immature. The rack of a large bull moose is next to it, for comparison.

A new project underway in the realm of Upper Peninsula history is the BEAUMIER HERITAGE CENTER, temporarily housed here until funds are raised for a new space on campus. Dr. John Beaumier, from Escanaba, became a successful orthopedic physician at the Mayo Clinic. He and his wife, Mary Jane, continuing their long interest in helping others, have given $1 million to NMU for a center showing how the ethnic and religious backgrounds of Upper Peninsula people made it the distinctive region it is today.

Relevant U.P. materials and objects for the Beaumier Center are already being collected — things as varied as boardinghouse expense records and apple juice cans — as it launches a new capital campaign and seeks an archivist/fundraiser. Papers and artifacts of the late Sam Cohodas, Marquette philanthropist and business legend, are already here. They show how he, with his brother, as teenagers, came from Byelorussia to avoid anti-Semitic persecution and the czar's army. They worked to bring their mother and siblings over, then parlayed a simple business selling apples and cabbage from a pushcart in Keweenaw mining communities into a large regional produce wholesaler and orchard owner. Sam Cohodas also established a Marquette bank that became a regional banking empire. His own artifacts include early Green Bay Packers memorabilia (he was an original Packer Backer) and old Jewish lamps.
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Temporarily the Beaumier Heritage Center is in Room C-108 of the Superior Dome. Open Tues & Thurs 1-5 during the semester, perhaps later. Also open during Superior Dome athletic events. Enter the Dome's main entrance.
The Dome is at 1401 Presque Isle north of Fair. Main parking lot at the head of Third. (906) 227-2850. Superior Dome open recreation hours: Mon-Thurs 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri to 5 when NMU is in session. Call to confirm. Usually used weekends for special events. Wheelchair-accessible.

Lower Harbor. The beautifully designed focus of the city's Lake Superior waterfront, with a fresh and smoked fish shop, a playground/picnic park next to the marina, a historic lighthouse, a breakwall to walk out on ... more

Marquette Maritime Museum. A low-key museum with lots of great stuff: superb replicas of freighters, three Fresnel lighthouse lenses, hands-on fishing nets and a pilot house, colorful flags from Great Lakes freighters, a miniature reconstruction of a famous WWII naval battle ... more

U.S.S. Darter-Dace Silent Service Memorial. A fascinating computerized, narrated diorama of the Philippine naval battle that crippled the Japanese navy, highlighting the critical role of two subs with U.P. crews and a replica conning tower are part ... more

Marquette Harbor Light. Visitors can now tour this oft-photographed lighthouse on the rocks and take the catwalk 300' out to Lighthouse Point, with great panoramic views of Presque Isle, ore dock, harbor, and town ... more

Lakeside bike path from the Inner Harbor to Presque Isle. You can rent a bike or rollerblades for this beautiful, busy shoreline path from the inner harbor to magical Presque Isle Park, passing a beach and picnic area for students and one for families ... more

Lake Superior & Ishpeming RR Ore Dock. Extending a full quarter mile out into the lake, this huge 75' landmark is where you can watch taconite pellets of iron ore delivered by train and noisily dumped into a waiting ore carrier ... more

Studio Gallery. Four prominent artists display their paintings, jewelry, and welded garden sculptures, gates, and hangings here at their gallery and working studio ... more

Moosewood Nature Center. Started by science teachers, the enthusiastic young staff offers 20 programs and outings a month for families and has some live native reptiles and amphibians to watch. A paved Bog Walk Trail is outside ... more

Presque Isle Park. One of the coolest city parks anywhere, it's a rocky, wooded peninsula jutting into Lake Superior with great vistas, 5 miles of walking paths, swimming pool and water slide, picnic grounds, bandshell ... more

The Village shopping district on Third Street. Between downtown and campus, Third Street has several popular restaurants; an excellent outdoors shop with stylish and functional outerwear; Scandinavian crystal, jewelry, and textiles ... more

Superior Dome. See the wood framework of the world's largest wood dome, used for athletics and community walking and jogging. Interesting exhibits in its outer corridor feature U.P. minerals, ethnic groups, and Upper Peninsula legends John Voelker, Dominic Jacobetti, Nita Engle, Glenn Seaborg, and Sam Cohodas ... more

DeVos Art Museum at Northern Michigan University. With this new facility, the Upper Peninsula has a real art museum, open year-round, with some high-level nationally important exhibits along with local and regional shows ... more

Father Marquette Park/ Chamber of Commerce.. Tourist info with a grand view of a picture-perfect town, harbor, and lighthouse ... more

Marquette County Courthouse. A grand public building from 1902, used with respect. See the impressive courtroom where the Anatomy of a Murder case was tried, the great view from the steps, and the display of Voelker legal memorabilia ... more

St. Peter Cathedral and Baraga Archives. In the cathedral, stained glass windows of saints and scenes from Jesus's life. Next door, the papers of the snowshoe priest from Slovenia involved with the early history of many Michigan communities ... more

Upper Peninsula Children's Museum. Low-tech, free wheeling, imaginative fun in a whacky micro city, a recyclatorium, and a great gift shop. Kids learn about microbiology after sliding down a toilet, fly in a real fuselage cockpit ... more

Marquette Food Co-op. Cheerful one-stop shopping with good produce and more trail mixes, energy bars, soy milk and juices for travelers in the attractive new location downtown ... more

Park Cemetery. Download WMOT deejay Jim Koski's chatty Park Cemetery walking tour and a stroll through this hilly, wooded cemetery becomes a guided tour of the graves of Marquette's founding elite ... more

Jilbert's Dairy. An ice cream parlor is the centerpiece of this headquarters complex of the U.P.'s premier dairy, where you can see milk being processed, picnic next to a giant cow, and shop for various U.P. foods and knick-knacks ... more

Brewmaster's Castle Home. The exterior is exotic, but get a look at what's inside ... more

Bingo and Bargains at the Women's Center. See a favorite U.P. pastime in action any evening. The 3,000-square-foot resale shop is open daytimes ... more

Mount Marquette Scenic Lookout. A rocky summit provides a glorious views of the city, the bay, and the vast expanse of Lake Superior beyond ... more

Marquette Branch Prison. The 1889 part of the prison that looks like it's out of Victorian England, with pretty inmate-tended flower gardens out front ... more

U.S. 41 road cut with ancient algal stromatolites. Looming above Highway 41, this rocky cliff reveals eroded remains of ancient (2 billion-year-old) mountains once far higher than today's Rockies ... more

Michigan Welcome Center. The picnic area provides a striking view of Marquette Bay and the distant city of Marquette, with helpful tourist info in the log Welcome Center ... more

Blueberry Ridge Cross-Country Ski Trail/Escanaba River State Forest. 12K of trails, 1.7 miles of them lighted, are groomed for ski-skating and diagonal stride ... more

Lakenenland. One of the U.P.'s most unusual roadside attractions, a pipefitter's quirky sculpture park. Part political, part fanciful, done just for fun. No fee, nothing to buy. ... more

 

 
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MARQUETTE
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U.S.S. Darter-Dace Silent Service Memorial

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Darter-Dace
The conning tower of the Darter-Dace submarine, which took part in the biggest naval battle ever at Leyte Gulf in the Pacific during WWII.

In a Maritime Museum annex with no entrance fee, the U.S.S. Darter-Dace Memorial honors crews of two World War II submarines, largely Upper Peninsula men. By extension it commemorates all Navy submarine crews. A fascinating computer-controlled diorama depicts the WWII Battle for Leyte Gulf in the Philippine Islands, October 23-24, 1944. History's largest naval battle, it inflicted crippling damages to the Japanese navy. Lights point out ships and their positions as the battle unfolded, to dramatic narration. The Darter and Dace submarines, played a key role in the battle's success.

The recreated Darter conning tower is outside to be seen any time of year.

"General Douglas MacArthur's landing at Leyte Gulf on October 20 was anticipated to force the Japanese Imperial Navy into a 'showdown' . . . at Leyte Gulf," explains Dave "Grog" Carpenter, a much later member of the crew of the Darter's successor sub, the Menhaden, in the exciting story on his Darter-Dace tribute web site, www.infomagic.net/~grog/ . Carpenter's story was meticulously critiqued by the Darter's commanding officer, the late Dave McClintock of Marquette. If you visit the site, don't be startled by the rousing rendition of "Anchors Aweigh." Carpenter's story is synopsized here.

Under McClintock's command, the Darter and Dace formed a two-sub "wolf pack" patrol at two approaches into Leyte Gulf. Picking up radio reports of MacArthur's landing, McClintock correctly guessed where his patrol might intercept Japanese naval forces coming from Singapore. The Darter made radar contact with three large Japanese warships, but couldn't catch up to torpedo them. During the ensuing rendezvous with the Dace, radar contact indicated that they had intercepted the Japanese Imperial Second Fleet: five battleships, a dozen cruisers, and 15 destroyers. Its location hadn't been known for a week.

The Darter tracked down the fleet, and the Darter and Dace fired the first shots in the Battle of Leyte Gulf. They sank three heavy cruisers, including the Vice Admiral's flagship (killing half his communications staff who devised and broke military codes). Another ship was so badly damaged that it headed back to Singapore under escort, taking the Japanese vice-admiral and half of his remaining communications staff with it, out of the action. (It was a mistake to head back, made by the vice-admiral's lack of sleep for days.) The Darter and Dace tracked the crippled Japanese cruiser by day, and by night made an "end-around" maneuver to get ahead of it in order to attack it with their remaining torpedoes. Then the Darter hung up on a shoal. The Dace abandoned the attack to rescue the Darter crew after the crew had destroyed anything on the sub that the Japanese might use. Their efforts to sink the Darter failed.

The combined crews returned to Australia on the Dace, to be greeted as heroes. A Board of Inquiry hearing determined that the McClintock took a justifiable calculated risk with his "end-around" maneuver and was not at fault for the Darter's loss. A vice-admiral recommended that the Darter crew stay together on a new submarine to be commanded by McClintock. But a navy personnel chief ordered McClintock to be demoted and sent to a Florida mine depot instead. Only a good word from an admiral in a face-to-face Washington brief about the battle kept the McClintock and the Darter crew together on the new sub USS Menhaden, built in nearby Manitowoc.

Submarines are legendary for the intensity of relationships they form. In World War II 20% of sub crew members were lost in combat. Darter, Dace, and Menhaden reunions of crews from all eras have been held since 1996. Art Bennett, a retired Navy aviator in Marquette, knew enough about naval history to realize that Dave McClintock the self-effacing NMU development staffer was a real war hero, unrecognized in his own home town. Bennett worked for 30 years to create the Darter-Dace Silent Service Memorial in a special museum annex. Fund-raising came from the Marquette Rotary and technical help from NMU art, broadcasting, and computer students.

Dave McClintock insisted that the Dace crew and its commander, Captain Bladen Claggett, share the honors. At the gala dedication in September, 2001, over 300 attended, despite the air travel shutdown caused by 9-11. Among them were featured speaker Gordon Van Wylen, WWII sub veteran and former president of Hope College in Holland, Michigan, and honored guest Nori Yoshida, a survivor of a heavy cruiser sunk by the Dace.

True submarine fans will want to be aware of the S. S. Silversides submarine at the Great Lakes Naval Memorial and Museum ( www.silversides.org ) in Muskegon, Michigan, which adds youth group sleepovers to regular ship-museum tours.
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Inside the Marquette Maritime Museum, 300 Lakeshore Blvd. at the foot of Ridge, at the east end of the Lower Harbor. Open daily from 10 to 5 from May 14 thru October 22. (906) 226-2006. No fee to see Darter-Dace Memorial. Wheelchair-accessible.



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