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ONTONAGON POINTS OF
INTEREST
Ontonagon County Historical Society Museum. A rich array of unusually interesting local artifacts, from the pre-Civil War mining and shipping boom to datolite to images after the great 1896 fire to Scandinavians' handmade musical instruments. ...
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Ontonagon Lighthouse. The 1866 brick lighthouse, being restored, is a reminder that Ontonagon was once a busy port, shipping lumber and copper to distant cities. Tourgoers can climb its tower. ...
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Stubb's Bar & Museum. Stubb's Bar & Museum, proudly ungentrified, encrusted with decades worth of local memorabilia and newer Green Bay Packers chainsaw art. ...
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U.P. Candle Co./Red Metal Minerals. Candles with the scents of the North Woods and a fine selection of copper and other Lake Superior minerals make Richard and Genevieve Whiteman's studio-hop stand out. ...
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Ontonagon Township Park. A pleasant park on Lake Superior has a mile-long public beach, a picnic area, and a campground. A wonderful place for a sunset walk ...
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Region: Porcupine Mountains and Ontonagon

ONTONAGON
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| | Kevin Musser collection | | Like today, 1940s Ontonagon depended economically on its big papermill and on logging. Another part of the local economy then were the small farms established largely by Finns who bought cutover land. Between the 1940s and now, the White Pine Mine, a major regional employer, has come and gone. | This tucked-away old harbor town at the mouth of the U.P.'s longest river is not a major tourist destination, but it offers much more than a quick look would suggest. Just east of town is a wonderful mile-long sandy beach on Lake Superior with a shady park of big trees behind it. The historical museum downtown is a visual delight, jammed with interesting and colorful old things. Nearby is what may well be the U.P.'s zaniest bar, Stubb's. A new especially nice shop carries candles made by one of the owners and a sophisticated collection of local minerals by the other owner.
But the town has had a series of serious blows. Its downtown streetscape has a snaggletooth look, the result of the Great Ontonagon Fire of 1896 from which it still hasn't fully recovered. More modest buildings replaced those constructed during the town's 19th-century prosperity from mining exploration and massive logging. In the 1850s, fortune-hunting prospectors gathered at the five-story Bigelow House hotel plotting ways to strike it rich.
| | Downtown Ontonagon, the block closest to the lake. "It's a town you have to want to get to," says the town's former bridge tender. | Back then the town prospered to the point where it had attracted a school teacher from the University of Michigan and a teacher of French and drawing for young ladies—in addition to opportunists drawn to this promising locale. Ontonagon had one of the U.P.'s earliest newspapers and a pioneering inter-city phone system. A plank road connected it with Rockland in 1859. The toll house on U.S. 45 going out of town can still be seen, identified by a historical marker.
Native Americans had occupied the area going back at least 5,000 years. European occupation of the region began in the 1790s with English fur traders. They were followed by prospectors and miners, guided by ancient pits dug by a people anthropologists have yet to identify. Member of this still-mysterious society had dug pit mines long before Woodland Indians (who seemed never to have learned how to make things with the metal) moved into the area. At the Minesota Mine outside Rockland, so many ancient stone hammers were found, they filled 10 wagons.
But the profits from Ontonagon County mining were tiny compared to the wealth copper and iron brought cities like Houghton-Hancock and Marquette. The enormous stands of white pine which could be floated down the Ontonagon river created the town's next economic upswing beginning in the 1880s, first with lumber and shingle mills, and then, interestingly enough, by a company that made a product that became familiar all over America—the Diamond match. The Diamond Match Company made lumber out of its best wood, then used its second-rate logs to make so many matches it became one of the U.P.'s biggest companies. Diamond's two sawmills employed 500 people. Its prosperity was reflected in the magnificent-looking brick company store for employees (also destroyed in the fire).
Then more bad luck. Not only did Diamond run out of pine to make its matches, but the Great Ontonagon Fire of 1896 destroyed the entire village and its lumber mills. Having already harvested the area's white pine, Diamond Match decided not to rebuild. The town's 2,300 homeless residents were left to shift for themselves.
But in a heroic example of grit, townspeople rebuilt. Ontonagon eventually grew to a population peak of about 2,400 in the 1970s. Logging the remaining hardwood and hemlock helped keep the town afloat, boosted by the arrival of a big paper mill in 1921 (still running today by Smurfit-Stone Corp). Even farming played a part in the town's revival. Finnish immigrants, eager to get out of the mines, treasured being able to have their own farms. They could survive on forty-acres augmented with income from logging. But darming in this cold climate began to dwindle after the 1920s. ? Ontonagon has always been a harbor town, strategically situated on a long stretch of Lake Superior consisting mainly of high bluffs. It's now an official harbor of refuge, the only safe Lake Superior port of any size between far away Eagle Harbor, way up the Keweenaw Peninsula, and Chequamegon Bay in Wisconsin. Furthermore, it's at the mouth of the 157-mile-long Ontonagon River, the U.P.'s longest. The river was the conduit for huge volumes of logs, first made into lumber, then matches, then paper.
...continued below...
| | The giant Smurfit-Stone corrugated paper mill looms just west of downtown Ontonagon, blocking the view of Lake Superior and the little lighthouse as well. Freighters bring large quantities of coal and limestone to the plant. | Today the river's use is primarily recreational. A well-equipped city marina across the river from downtown has 7 transient and 29 seasonal slips. It sits half way between the old and new U.S. 64 highways. The new re-routed highway became yet another source of unhappiness for many Ontonagians. It is 1,000 feet upstream from the marina. A quarter-mile-long bridge (the U.P.'s longest) was needed when the existing swing bridge became redundant and was dismantled. The old U.S. 64 went straight down the city's main street before turning 90° west toward the bridge over the river, boosting downtown businesses. The new U.S. 64 by-passes downtown altogether. Adding insult to injury, boaters who used to dock at the marina had only a short walk across the old bridge (now gone) to get downtown. The new bridge means a much longer walk. Downtown business, not surprisingly, has been badly hurt by the re-routing of 64.
| Tied up near the mouth of the Ontonagon River, this dredge is essential in keeping the river deep enough for freighters. Such dredging is paid for by specific Congressional appropriations. Future funding is far from certain. | That's not the only problem facing Ontonagon. It has only one major employer, Smurfit-Stone, the town's economic mainstay almost 90 years. The enormous paper mill's 240 employees make 800 tons a day of the corrugated sandwiched layer that gives cardboard boxes their strength. The plant is powered by coal. Freighters arrive 6 times a year, each arrival bringing 16,000 tons. But the freighters need at least water 17-19 feet deep at Smurfit's dock. But the same long river that brought logs to the town's mills also brings lots of sediment which settles near the mouth. Maintaining the needed depth for freighters requires an annual $400,000 dredging that the federal government has long been paying. A budget-cutting law now limits this expensive service only to harbors handling a million tons of cargo a year. Even with the additional 200,000 tons of coal that arrive annually at the dock for the nearby White Pine Electric plant, the Ontonagon harbor falls well short of this minimum tonnage. So far Michigan politicians have gotten special exemptions to continue the dredging at no cost to the city, but no one knows how long this will continue. At stake is the very real possibility that Smurfit-Stone will close if the federal funding is discontinued, yet another economic disaster for Ontonagon.
Back to Porcupine Mountains and Ontonagon
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ONTONAGON
RESTAURANTS,
LODGINGS
& CAMPGROUNDS

These are our choices, not ads.

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ONTONAGON RESTAURANTS
See also Rockland, Silver City, White Pine.
The Candlelight Inn has closed again.

HARBOR TOWN CAFE
(906) 884-6525

Harbor Town is often mentioned as a favorite local eatery. It's the local pizzeria, with pizza any time, but it also offers breakfast, hamburgers, salads, broasted chicken ($6.50 as a three-piece dinner, also by the bucket), e.g. 16 pieces $18.22, 20 pieces $20.34), and Jilbert's ice cream. Cartoon characters decorate the outdoor eating area in front. Not no-smoking, but there are no ashtrays, and the breakfast crowd here doesn't smoke. Credit cards accepted.

409 River St. Open Mon-Sat 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun 8-9. Handicap access: no steps. Call. Family-friendly. No alcohol.
ROXEY'S
(906) 884-6109

This smokey, ungentrified bar serves good food. An idea of what it's about is its signature Roxey Burger (2 one-third-pound Black Angus patties, raw onions —or you could get sautéed onions — and American cheese, with chips, for $6). There are salads, too, and many chicken and other sandwiches.

411 River St. Kitchen open 11 a.m.-11, from noon Sun. Handicap access: call. Not for children. Full bar.
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ONTONAGON LODGINGS
See also: Silver City, Porcupine Mountains State Park, Rockland, White Pine.
Typical lodgings in this area are small, owner-run motels and resorts on Lake Superior. Superior is quite shallow here, making for warmer swimming than in many places. Listings are arranged from center of town toward state park.

NORTHERN LIGHT INN B&B
(800) 238-0018; (906) 884-4290

A casual, adult atmosphere makes this large, updated 1901 home a great place to unwind in private for stressed-out couples, or to socialize downstairs if they like. Four guest rooms have private baths ($75-$95). Two have whirlpool tubs. Common areas include a large living room with fireplace and games, and a big wrap-around porch. Innkeeper Dianne O'Shea fixes a full breakfast. The house has a big yard with flowers in a pleasant area of historic homes. Original owner Thornton Green made his money in lumber, then established a farm to help immigrant Finlanders grow crops here in a short growing season. A driftwood beach is a block away. It's a short drive or nice walk to the beautiful sandy beach at the township park. Ask about a fresh, fully equipped vacation home with cable TV and phone, four blocks from downtown — nice for families or groups of adult skiers or snowmobilers.

701 Houghton St. (runs north from River Street downtown). Handicap access: no. No children or pets.
INN TOWNE MOTEL
(906) 884-2100

New management and a less smoky environment make this clean, comfortable downtown motel more attractive to a wider variety of guests. Breakfast spots and taverns are just around the corner, and the beach is a pleasant walk or bike ride away. 21 rooms are in two two-story buildings. All have cable TV and phones. Rates for two people: $55 (one bed), $65 (two beds). Snowmobile trail close by.

314 Chippewa St. (just off River St. near Syl's). Handicap access: call. No pets.
PETERSON'S COTTAGES
(906) 884-4230

Fourteen housekeeping cottages, mostly are in a secluded wooded, private setting. It's a short walk through the woods to a sandy Lake Superior beach. Cottages sleep two to seven. Rates for two, including taxes: $90-$150/night. $12/extra adult, $6/child ages 5-13, preschoolers free. All cottages have c grills, lawn chairs, 60+channel cable TV, and phones. Eight cottages have fireplaces, with wood provided in winter. Fully equipped kitchens, microwaves; linens. There are 2 kayaks, a canoe, 4 mountain bikes and 2 paddle boats to use, snowshoes to rent. Volleyball, horseshoes, swings. The gift shop sells pop, pizza and souvenirs. Ask about a vacation home with hot tub that sleeps up to 14. and another vacation home on the lake sleeps up to 6. Reserve early for good availability.

287 Lakeshore, 1 1/2 miles west of Ontonagon, off M-64. Open year round. Handicap access: call. Children: $6/extra child ages 5-13. No pets.
SCOTT'S SUPERIOR INN
(906) 884-4866

This cozy, attractive Alpine style complex enjoys a wooded setting about 75 yards from a sandy Lake Superior beach. 4 suites with kitchenette and sleeping room ($95) and 4 motel rooms ($44 for one, $59 for 2 person and one bed, two beds $71). All units are air-conditioned, with phones, Coffee is served in a lobby with fireplace. Refrigerator and freezer to use. The rec room also has a fireplace, plus foosball, pool table, and arcade games. Playground. 6 cabins sleep 4 to a maximum of 8 and start at $110. Lakefront cabins start at $165 for first two person, $10 for each additional person.

277 Lakeshore Rd., 1 1/2 miles west of Ontonagon, off M-64. $10/extra person in cabin. Handicap access: one cabin. $5/pet/night.
SUPERIOR SHORES RESORT
(906) 884-2653; (800) 344-5355

Immediate beach access and affordable prices make this updated older resort stand out. It consists of a 7-room motel, 3 attached cottages on a smallish property, plus a renovated cottage with sunrise and sunset views. (Reserve way ahead.) The two end motel units and all cottages have lake views. All lodgings have wi-fi internet, coffeemakers, and 50+ channel cable TV. Air-conditioning upon request. Guests share a cordless phone. Nightly campfires in summer, conditions permitting. The picnic area has grills, tables, lawn chairs. Cottages ($75-$85) have complete kitchens, sleep up to 7. Motel rooms have fridges, tables. Motel rates are $39 (one bed), $59 (two beds), Weekly rates year-round; ask about off-season rates. Enthusiastic owners Don and Linda Kermeen, refugees from Houston's corporate life, are active forces in the Friends of the Porkies.

1823 M-64, 5 miles west of Ontonagon, 6 miles east of Porkies state park. -Handicap access: call. Children: under 18 free. $5/ extra person (motel), $10 (cottage). Dogs: $7/night
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ONTONAGON CAMPGROUNDS
See also: Porcupine Mountains State Park.

ONTONAGON TOWNSHIP PARK
(906) 884-2930 (seasonal); (906) 884-2415

This simple park and campground, tucked away northeast of downtown Ontonagon, enjoys a long, sandy Lake Superior beach and beautiful views. Campsites under big pines are big enough to accommodate 35' rigs, but don't provide privacy between sites. Electricity and water serves each site, but there are no showers or flush toilets. There's a playground and a walkway to town. Sunset views from the walkway or beach are outstanding. This is a real find for spur-of-the-moment vacationers who haven't made reservations at the Porkies. Thus far, it only fills on holiday weekends. Not reservable.

Take Houghton St. northeast from M-38 downtown. It turns into Lake Shore. Park is in 1/2 mile. About $10/night. Handicap access: one step into toilets. Dogs: on 6-foot least.
RIVER PINES RV PARK & CAMPGROUND
(906) 884-4600; (800) 424-1520

Ontonagon's only modern campground, a Good Sam affiliate, has 32 sites ($18-$25/night for a family of 4) on a tree-lined drive with full hookups. Cable TV and phone hookups extra. Shady tent sites $16/night. The main house has one room to rent (sleeps 5). The rec room converts to a dorm room in winter ($12/night). There's a rec hall, game room, playground, and small store and laundry room. The Ontonagon River is across the road with a dock for fishing and canoeing. Under 2 miles to town beach on Lake Superior. Reservations advised from July 4-Labor Day.

600 River Road on west bank of Ontonagon River. Take M-64 west out of town, but turn onto River Road just south of the marina. Open all year. Wheelchair accessible Pets OK
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