
miles of hiking trails • modern and rustic campgrounds near the lake • remote rustic cabins the state rents cheaply for overnight stays along trails
Dozens of beautiful waterfalls Campsites and trails in scenic, roadless areas make the Porkies a top Midwestern destination for hikers and backpackers.
| | Don Hunt | | Shoreline just east of Ontonagon | Winter near an eastern shore of Lake Superior brings heavy snow. There are terrific lake views from some of the 25 kilometers of cross-country ski trails, and there's downhill skiing on slopes with 640' vertical drops. In 2003 the owners of Mount Bohemia took over management of the ski slope, which had lost money for the state park. (See skiing section.) The new managers cut back on some grooming of the much-loved cross-country ski trails through old-growth forest, but now the volunteer Friends of the Porkies groom the cross-country trails each Thursday. For a report on conditions, call a Friend at (906) 884-4274.
The rest of Ontonagon County also has its charms for people who enjoy getting off the beaten path. A map of 25 old mine sites, cemeteries, and other offbeat historical sites is on www.ontonagonmi.com; look under "attractions" for "heritage pathways."
Another magnet for backpackers is a well-developed segment of the North Country Trail crossing from the Porcupine Mountains all the way to the Sturgeon River Gorge near Alberta south of L'Anse. It provides access to more rugged, remote areas little penetrated by roads but outside the boundaries of the state park. The North Country Trail also connects several waterfalls, the Old Victoria historic copper-mining site, lakes, a national forest campground, and the Sturgeon River Gorge and Wilderness Area. (Visit www.northcountrytrail.org and click on the Upper Peninsula part of the Michigan map for a general map.) Volunteers have built three trailside bug-proof shelters.
The North Country Trail segment through the Trap Hills between Bergland and Victoria offers spectacular views with very few hikers. Both trails have excellent fall color.
...continued below...
| | Most don't associate Ontonagon County with agriculture, but motorists on M-28 between Bergland and Bruce Crossing pass luxuriant hayfields like this. This is longtime Finnish dairy country, with occasional beef cattle near Ontonagon. | Another magnet for backpackers is a well-developed segment of the North Country Trail crossing from the Porcupine Mountains all the way to the Sturgeon River Gorge near Alberta south of L'Anse. It provides access to more rugged, remote areas little penetrated by roads but outside the boundaries of the state park. The North Country Trail also connects several waterfalls, the Old Victoria historic copper-mining site, lakes, a national forest campground, and the Sturgeon River Gorge and Wilderness Area. (Visit www.northcountrytrail.org">www.northcountrytrail.org and click on the Upper Peninsula part of the Michigan map for a general map.) Volunteers have built three trailside shelters. The North Country Trail segment through the Trap Hills between Bergland and Victoria offers spectacular views with very few hikers, although a spate of recent enthusiastic stories in national backpacking and adventure magazines may change that a bit. Both trails have excellent fall color.
The only town of any size in the region is Ontonagon at the mouth of the long river from which the village and county get their names. The turbid, 157-mile-long river is the U.P.'s longest, one branch flowing north all the way from Gogebic County near Wisconsin, the other branch flowing east out of huge Lake Gogebic. The river brought millions of logs to Ontonagon's harbor where mills made them into boards, shingles, and matches.
The village of Ontonagon has an excellent historical museum and a mile of beautiful, sandy Lake Superior beach in its township park. The area has many farms established by Finnish immigrants, who worked reluctantly in the mines and saved to buy farms on cutover land. Many Finlanders loved the self-sufficiency of farming the heavy, fertile soils in this cold climate. Ontonagon County's two major highways, M-26 and US-45, pass through uncommonly pastoral U.P. landscapes, with grazing cattle and impressive barns. "Eat right with beef!" proclaims a fading sign on the wall of the imposing brick poorhouse outside Ontonagon.
Some of the earliest serious copper mining in the United States took place around Rockland, Mass City, and Victoria, starting with the productive Minesota Mine in 1847. (The correct spelling is with one "n.") Indian led early prospectors to pits made by mysterious ancient miners long before Woodland Indians settled the area. (Just who these ancient miners were is a matter of great interest and scientific debate in Copper Country.) The Ontonagon Boulder, a giant hunk of copper weighing hundreds of pounds created a sensation and ended up in the Smithsonian Institution. Seventeenth-century missionaries first circulated stories about the boulder, which captured the imaginations of men from the East hoping to get rich quick by discovering mineral resources.
The quaint, sleepy village of Rockland, once a mining boom town, is an interesting place to explore on the way to the Old Victoria Restoration, which has furnished log miners' houses as they were in 1900 and 1920. The Caledonia Mine outside Mass City is still being mined—for specimens of copper and other minerals— and open to rock hounds and mineral collectors by appointment. The Adventure Copper Mine near Greenland, developed in 1850, has reopened as an underground mine tour.
Return to
Home/Guide to Upper Peninsula Regions
|

HELPFUL AREA INFORMATION
The ONTONAGON COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE mails information and publicizes lodgings and events for all of Ontonagon County, including Ontonagon, the Porkies, and places like Ewen, Bruce Crossing, and Trout Creek. (906) 884-4735 or call River Pines RV Park, (906) 884-4600. Its web site is www.ontonagonmi.org. It has an events calendar, too. From May into October Chamber volunteers staff the Tourist Information Center at M-64 and River Road just west of Ontonagon, usually from 9 to 6 seven days a week. The web site of the weekly newspaper is www.ontonagonherald.com For inspiration for a Porkies trip, look in on www.quietlywild.com. It's the website of a great Porkies appreciator, the late photographer DAN URBANSKI. His online photo collection and wilderness diary are well worth seeing. (Photos are no longer sold by mail.) It was Dan who posted the Porcupine Mountains Chamber of Commerce site, last updated in 2003, but still a good source of photographs and lodging links. www.porcupinemountains.com ROCKLAND'S web site is www.RocklandMI.org The OTTAWA NATIONAL FOREST has extensive holdings through the central part of Ontonagon County. Its Ontonagon District Office is at 1209 Rockland Road/U.S. 45. Open weekdays from 8 to 4 Eastern Time. (906) 884-2411. TTY (906) 884-6577. It's stocked with many handouts and nature pamphlets. Or check out www.fs.fed.us/r9/ottawa From the Black River waterfalls just west of the Porkies at the way to the Sturgeon River Gorge near Alberta are 130 continuous miles of the NORTH COUNTRY TRAIL with just a mile along motor roads. The section from the hamlet of Norwich to Victoria is remote high land with some amazing vistas. Hikers and backpackers should check out the outstanding web site of the NCT's western U.P. Peter Wolfe Chapter for many photos, complete trail notes, and current conditions, what's blooming, what's migrating, and more: www.northcountrytrail.org/pwf
LODGINGS TIPS Cottages on the water are in limited supply and get booked up fast for July and early August, sometimes a year ahead. Call by January for good availability, and call early for fall color season and ski season weekends and Christmas week, too. Similarly, call a year ahead for Porcupine Mountains State Park wilderness cabins in peak seasons, summer and winter. . . Late August and early September, after kids are back in school and before fall color season, is a wonderful, unhurried time with good availability. Weather is iffy starting in late September; it could be balmy, or it might even snow. . . Spring means you get wildflowers and no crowds if you can deal with the bugs. June is considered a spring month, too. Lodgings somewhat farther away, in Ontonagon and White Pine, won't book nearly so soon.
EVENTS For exact dates and a full calendar, look in on www.ontonagonmi.com. A huge and very colorful national event sets up camp near Rockland in early August of 2005. The NATIONAL RENDEZVOUS and Living History Foundation reenacts the North American fur trade in its waning years before 1840. Regular enthusiasts study up and recreate the roles, speech, costumes, and food of French voyageurs, Native American trappers and their families, and cannoneers and other military of the black powder era. The Rendezvous is a big event on the Upper Mississippi and its tributaries, but this is the first time the national rendezvous takes place near a Great Lake. Local people are raising funds for a tall ship to visit; look in on www.mwpr2005.com or just mail a check to Ontonagon Village Manager Penny Osier, 315 Quartz St., Ontonagon 49953 . . . The ONTONAGON Riverfest on the second weekend of June coincides with free fishing weekend. It brings contests, arts and crafts, a pig roast, and more. A medieval reenactment group adds dancing and fighting demonstrations of the Robin Hood era, circa 1200. Ontonagon also holds an impressive Labor Day Festival and parade . . . WHITE PINE and BRUCE CROSSING celebrate July 4 in a big way. . . . The Ontonagon County Fair comes to GREENLAND in late July or early August. . . . In OLD VICTORIA the Craft Fair is the third Sunday of August. . . . EWEN holds its Log Jamboree the third weekend of September. . . . The Porkies Fest is on Labor Day at the PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS Wilderness State Park.
HARBORS with transient dockage: In Ontonagon (906-884-9950, 906-884-4225). lat. 46° 52' 57" N, 89° 19' 58" W) with showers.
PICNIC PROVISIONS and PLACES Virtually all restaurants offer takeout meals. The county's two supermarkets with substantial deli sections are Pat's Foods on M-38 outside ONTONAGON and the Settler's Co-op on M-28 at U.S. 45 in BRUCE CROSSING. In ONTONAGON, the township park on Lake Superior just north of town has a beautiful beach and view, with picnic tables and shade beneath tall pines. Riverfront Park in town on M-64 by the marina has a boardwalk but no shade. On M-64 halfway to Silver City, Green Park has a pretty picnic spot by the Lake Superior beach. There's a delightful rest stop and picnic area where U.S. 45 crosses the Middle Branch of the Ontonagon River, a few miles south of ROCKLAND and MASS CITY. It commemorates the Military Road approximately along U.S. 45 between Green Bay and Fort Wilkins at Copper Harbor. In SILVER CITY, some picnic tables are nestled in the woods where the Iron River meets Lake Superior. The PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS STATE PARK has picnic tables along the entrance road by Lake Superior, at the Lake of the Clouds overlook, at the Presque Isle River Mouth campground, and by the parking lot near Summit Peak (a less scenic option).
|
|