Hiking and Paddling Isle Royale

Backpacking and canoeing are the best ways to get into the backcountry. Canoes have the edge over kayaks for this kind of experience because they can generally carry more gear and food, and a two-person canoe is simpler to carry over portages than two kayaks.

Lingering at the quiet inland lakes, mostly reachable by canoe, kayak, or hiking trail, is a wonderful way to connect with the wilderness. Many inland canoe routes are possible. Very fit, experienced canoeists can paddle a big circle route that includes four inland lakes and some of the island's most striking scenery. Four lakes connect Rock Harbor with McCargoe Cove (five portages, two to three days of travel). The challenging northern water route returning from McCargoe through the Amygdaloid Channel and around the Five Fingers to Rock Harbor is at least 14 miles. Or you could arrange at the lodge desk to take a water taxi back.

For paddlers, The Greenstone and Jim DuFresne's Trails Illustrated: Isle Royale map ($12) have not only a color trail map but a chart of portages with elevations, distance, ascent or descent, and comments.

Backpackers have more options than paddlers for getting away from the most-used trails and campgrounds. Jim DuFresne recommends in his Isle Royale guidebook (below) the Minong Ridge Trail along the island's north side as a less developed alternative to the Greenstone Ridge Trail along the island's spine. For those who especially seek solitude, he suggests the Feldtmann Ridge Trail and the Island Mine Trail, reached from Windigo, the island's western port. His short book is the best available trail guide, with lots of helpful details and trail descriptions.
Camping in the backcountry instead of at developed campgrounds is always an alternative. It's the way to avoid the organized groups of scouts and others who use the larger campgrounds. The National Park Service requires that arrangements for off-trail camping be made at the place your camping permit is obtained. "Off-trail hiking and camping is difficult at Isle Royale, and is only recommended for experienced campers," it states.
All paddlers must be aware that conditions on Lake Superior can change quickly. Superior is so cold, it can quickly become life-threatening—a special danger to canoeists. Staying close to shore is essential. Lake Superior is for experienced canoeists only. The island's north side is especially difficult.

Hikers should plan conservatively, start slowly, and not push themselves. Plan to carry at least a half-gallon of water per person. Potable water is only available at Rock Harbor and Windigo. Otherwise, drinking water should be boiled at least two minutes or passed through a .4-micron water filter. Bring replacement filters.
Ten miles a day carrying backpack with food is a lot to accomplish on Isle Royale. East-west trails are up and down over a series of lava flow edges. They go up and down from 600 feet to 1,300 feet and back. Park rangers recommend five to eight miles a day unless you have hiked here before.

Slopes on the island's north side are steeper because it's at the tilted-up edge of the ancient lava flow. This is relevant planning information for hikers and canoeists. Trails and portages on the south side of Greenstone Ridge are more gradual.

Even the 40-mile Greenstone Ridge Trail down the island's long axis isn't flat. The trail is crisscrossed with fault lines, making for lots of ups and downs. Footing is often difficult, due to an unusual number of roots and rocks and slanted bedrock that may be mossy and slick after a rain. On the roadless island, hikers who injure themselves are far from help. Marathons are for the mainland, advises the staff.

The exposed rock portions of ridge trails can get quite hot by 10 a.m. Sunscreen is essential if you're on the water or on the trail. Some paths grow thick with thimbleberries and other obstructions by August, so have long pants handy.

"Low impact" and "leave no trace" are the watchwords for camping and hiking. To disturb the island as little as possible and to preserve its natural beauty, hiking here is more disciplined than most vacationers are accustomed to. That means, among other things: rigorously packing out all trash with you; wearing subdued colors of clothing; staying in the middle of trails to reduce erosion; and using backpacking stoves rather than making campfires.

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