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REGION
TWELVE
Sault Ste. Marie
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Sault Ste. Marie is strategically located on the American side of the rapids of the St. Marys River between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. It's the Upper Peninsula's second largest city, with a population of some 16,500. Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan is the business and government administrative center of the Eastern Upper Peninsula, and it has long been a tourist attraction because of the Soo Locks at
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Soo Locks Park at Lake Superior's outlet. The locks are a mecca for serious boatwatchers. The Soo Locks Boat Tour takes visitors through the smallest lock. On the Canadian side, the much smaller locks (part of the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site provides historical perspective on Canadian history and can be toured via Lock Tours Canadawww.locktours.com. But in recent years, the huge, glitzy Las Vegas-style Kewadin Casino has become a much bigger visitor draw than the locks.
The Michigan Soo is the smaller component of the "twin Soos," or what's occasionally billed as "Sault Ste. Marie, the International City" - "two nations, one city!" The much larger Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario has been connected to Michigan since 1962 by the International Bridge. The Canadian Soo developed heavy industry (a steel mill and paper mill) shortly after 1900 because the American side failed to give American entrepreneur Francis Clergue the financial support he sought. Today the Canadian Soo's population is around 74,500
The International Bridge provides a terrific view down on all the locks, on what remains of the historic rapids, and on the steel and paper mills. The Soo Locks Train Tours across from Locks Park in Michigan let visitors take in the view at their leisure, and provide excellent introductions to the Twin Soos.
Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan is a visitor hub for a beautiful natural area that extends west along the beautiful, forested shores of Whitefish Bay. It includes the villages of Bay Mills and Brimley, Monocle Lake, Bay View beach and related campgrounds of Hiawatha National Forest, the Point Iroquois Lighthouse and museum, and the beautiful Bay Mills Casino and Resort. The Bay Mills Indian Community of Chippewas has done much to make its community the most attractive of all the Upper Peninsula's tribal lands.
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario is the point of departure for the Algoma Central Railroad's popular Agawa Canyon tour train. (In winter it's known as the Snow Train.) Sault Ontario is also the starting point for the drive along the spectacular red Lake Superior bluffs to Wawa. Skiers come to ski nearby Searchmont, a ski resort with the second-biggest vertical drop in the Midwest after Mount Bohemia in the Keweenaw Peninsula.
The city is large, familiarly suburban in its sprawl, yet with many distinctively British/Canadian touches in its older architecture. But just north of it, the landscape becomes wild and rugged, part of the Algoma Highlands. Heading north on Highway 17, the road around Lake Superior to Wawa and Thunder Bay, development suddenly stops as you leave town, and a vista of pure trees unfolds before you. Motorists can feel like they're driving across the frontier. Actually, there are small communities at Goulais Bay (pronounced "GOO-lee") and inland at Searchmont where outdoors-lovers live and commute to Sault Ste. Marie. But it's important to fill up on gas heading north and around the big lake, because gas stations are few and far between.
The Canadian Soo has long been a jumping-off place for people going into the bush in the roadless north. The Algoma Central Railroad (now the Agawa Canyon Tour Train and Snow Train) was begun in the 1890s by Francis Clergue to connect iron mines in the wilderness a hundred miles north of Sault, Ontario, to his steel mill. Even today the tour train also serves fishing and hunting lodges unreachable by road. Search for "Algoma Central Railroad history" to read several interesting accounts. Canada's famous Group of Seven expressionist landscape painters used an Algoma Central box car shunted to sidings as the mobile base camp for some of their outdoor painting trips. (See their vivid views of the Canadian landscape at www.groupofsevenart.com and read about their important role in creating a Canadian identify at www.mta.ca/faculty/arts/Canadian_studies.) Bushplanes based here at the Ontario Provincial Air Service, begin in 1924, were sent out to fight fires in the north. Later seaplanes based here provided transportation to lumber, mining, and fishing camps. Today land-based amphibious planes have made seaplanes obsolete. Their waterfront hangar now houses the Canadian Bushplane Heritage Centre, an unusual and compelling visitor attraction.
Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, is the oldest continuously settled place in the Middle West, going back to a fur trading post in the 1650s and mission a decade later. The southern (now American) riverbank was settled first because it was higher and more habitable.
Long before that, Ojibwa (also called Chippewa) Indians lived on Sugar Island and fished in the whitewater rapids of the St. Marys River, teeming with whitefish. They called the place "the rapids" - "Sault" in French, "Bawating" in Ojibwa (pronounced "BOW-ding," rhymes with "cow"). Today's visitors to the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site can take the Attikamek Trail and probably see descendants of early Ojibwa fishing in what remains of the rapids.
The rapids, rich in many species of fish, have always been the basis of the local economy one way or another. During the fur trade, from the 1600s into the 1800s, portaging around the rapids was necessary. (Today's Portage Avenue by the locks is along that old portage route.) The pressing need to ship valuable cargoes, first of copper, then iron, and later grain, to the Lower Lakes motivated the construction of a succession of locks, beginning in 1855. Today the locks permit even huge 1,000-foot freighters to pass from one lake to the other.
There's little in the way of manufacturing and no mining in the Eastern Upper Peninsula. Across the river in Sault Ste. Marie, Canada, the imaginative American industrialist Francis Hector Clergue put together cheap power (generated by the fall at the St. Marys River) with the iron and timber in the Canadian hinterland to create an industrial powerhouse that today dwarfs the older American Sault in population.
Much of the land in Michigan interior here is marshy, though some of the best Upper Peninsula farmland is around Pickford and Rudyard, 20 or so miles to the south. Two automotive test tracks, Continental Teves near Brimley and Smithers near Raco, take advantage of the area's cold, snowy weather and relative accessibility to Detroit via I-75. The multi-prison complex at Kincheloe and the casino are the biggest employers in a region that used to have one of the state's highest poverty rates. Then the Sault Ste. Marie Tribe of Chippewa Indians led the way in Michigan to community economic development on an impressive scale through gambling.
Between Sault Ste. Marie and Whitefish Point, Lake Shore Drive along Whitefish Bay is beautiful and most interesting. At Bay Mills, it offers terrific Lake Superior views from the short detour up Mission Hill, looking out onto shipping lanes. Going west along Lakeshore Road, motorists pass the Bay Mills Casino and Resort (the first casino to take advantage of a prime scenic location and market itself as a destination resort with golf) plus a lighthouse museum with a stunning view from its tower, and a beautiful North Country Trail segment with a swinging bridge. The Hiawatha National Forest, which includes much of this land, has several picnic areas, campgrounds, and beaches in prime settings, often with very large trees spared during the logging era.
It all makes for a lovely day's drive, especially magnificent in fall color season, when maples, birches, and dark green conifers make rich color contrasts. If you're driving between Tahquamenon Falls and Sault Ste. Marie, it's well worth the extra time to take Lake Shore west from Brimley as an east-west scenic route, instead of the direct but dull M-28.
Border areas are always sensitive to shifting economic and political circumstances. 9/11 brought many changes to the area, starting with a stepped-up U. S. Border Patrol presence and a new, much larger customs/immigration/Border Patrol building on the American end of the International Bridge. Backups aren't as frequent in summer 2005 as they had been when American customs and immigration staff looked in every trunk. Canadian border employees were involved in labor negotiations and work slowdowns. Possible backups at the border are expected only on peak days in summer for 2005, and they're always worse for Americans returning to the U.S.
Some things are different. You may be asked for a picture ID for each child. If children don't have a passport, they should have a picture ID obtainable from the Michigan Secretary of State drivers' license office or comparable office in other states. In Michigan it can take up to three weeks to get a picture ID, and it costs $10. It's necessary for parents to present the child's birth certificate to get the picture ID. Also, if you're driving a borrowed car, you may be questioned if your registration doesn't match your name. Different inspectors require different things, local residents say, and they have the right to handle things the way they want.
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HELPFUL AREA INFORMATION
• For a helpful travel guide and 4-color maps to the entire area (mostly on the Michigan side), including Whitefish Bay up to Brimley, call Sault Conventin & Visitor Bureau: (800) MI-SAULT, (906) 632-3301 weekdays from 8:30 to 5. Its web site, www.saultstemarie.com, is geared specifically to visitors and includes an excellent calendar of events and a complete listing of accommodations in Sault St. Marie (not in Brimley, however).
• The City of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan owns and operates manay recreational facilities, including parks, the only boat launch on the upper St. Marys River, cross-country ski trails, a marina, and more. Its site, www.sault-sainte-marie.mi.us, is worth checking out for these little extras.
• The Sault Area Chamber of Commerce (906-632-3366) is a membership organization for business interests in the American Sault Ste. Marie. Its walk-in office, loaded with travel brochures, is at 2581 I-75 Business Spur, in the hexagonal building where the I-75 Business Spur turns north into town. It distributes info only about its members. The chamber is open weekdays from 8 to 5, possibly longer in July & August.
• The Michigan Welcome Center is by the last I-75 exit in the U.S., at 943 Portage Ave. West. From town, take Portage Avenue - the street by the locks - west over I-75. It's full of printed information about all of Michigan, but it's especially strong on area and Upper Peninsula attractions. Open daily year-round, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. From June into Sept. or mid October open from 9 to 7. (906) 632-8242.
• For detailed tips on crossing the border, customs and other regulations into Canada and back to the U.S., visit www.ssmcoc.com. Traveling with pets? To enter Canada, proof of vaccination is required!
• At the Canadian end of the International Bridge, the Ontario Travel Information Centre is an extremely helpful source of all kinds of travel information, from customs and rebates and local info to provincial and national parks. Info can be mailed. The Algoma Country Travel Guide pulls a lot into one publication about the area. Look for the Ontario Travel Info sign to your right coming off the bridge, just past customs. (705) 945-6941. Open daily year-round. Spring & fall from 8 to 6. From mid June thru Labor Day open from 8 to 8. Winter open 8:30-5.
• The Canadian Soo's chamber is the Sault Ste. Marie Chamber of Commerce (705-949-7152), online at www.ssmcoc.com. Its site includes detailed tips on border crossing regulations into Canada and back to the U.S., plus an excellent monthly "community events" calendar with clickable annotations. Pick up travel info on chamber members at its kiosk in the downtown Station Mall, the most prominent building in town, right on the waterfront. The kiosk is open Mon-Fri 9-7, Sat 9:30-5:30, Sun 1-5.
• For free trip-planning info on Canada's national parks and sites, call (888) 773-8888 or visit www.pc.gc.ca.
• Driving around Lake Superior is something every Midwesterner should consider doing once in a lifetime. The meaty, free Lake Superior Circle Tour Adventure Guide magazine can be had from the North of Superior Toursim Association. Call (800) 265-3951 or visit www.nosta.on.can.
• The web site of Eupnta, the Eastern Upper Peninsula Nature Tourism Association, promises to develop into a helpful resource with a distinctive slant. It is www.greatwaters.com. Driving tours along the Eastern U.P. shores of lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron are outlined.
PUBLIC LAND
• Most public land near the Michigan Sault is part of the Hiawatha Natonal Forest (906-635-05311). The Sault Ste. Marie Ranger District office is at 4000 Bus. Spur I-75, out between the State Police Post and Cascade Crossing Mall. Open weekdays 8-4:30. The big maps of the Hiawatha National Forest's two sides, for sale here, can be quite helpful. The 24-hour lobby also has a complete range of handouts about recreational opportunities for the entire Hiawatha National Forest.
The Michigan Depart of Natural Resources Sault Ste. Marie office (906-635-5281) is at 2001 Ashmun. It sells hunting and fishing licenses and distributes free maps with state forest campgrounds and trails.
• In Canada, two provincial parks are near Sault Ontario: Pancake Bay Provincial Park and the very large Lake Supperior Provincial Park on the way to Wawa. Get information about them by calling or stopping at the Ontario Travel Information Center by the International Bridge (705 945-6941). See above.
GUIDES and GROUP OUTINGS
The Sault Naturalists of Ontario and Michigan meet regularly and take weekly field trips in season. Trip leaders are often professional wildlife specialists. It's nice to get a binational perspective on conservation issues. Visit their site at www3.sympatico.ca/don.hall2 for upcoming events and good links. The Naturalists' Border Birder Hotline has been replaced by www.northbirding.com, a Michigan site noting bird sightings throughout the state.
• Caribou Expeditions (800-970-6662) offers kayak instruction, rental and sales, and tours into the back country north of Sault Ste. Marie. Their home base is on Goulais Bay, half an hour north of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario. Some instruction is in the city. See their site, www.caribou-expeditions.com, for a schedule and tours.
• Guided day trips and custom vacations kayaking, canoeing, or riding are offered by Algoma Adventures. Call (705) 945-5032 or visit www.algomaadventures.com.
• The Voyaguer Trail Association is akin to the North Country Trail but on a more limited scale. Its trail, partly completed, is planned to go along Lake Superior's north shore from Thunder Bay to Manitoulin Island on Georgian Bay. It's completed from Goulais Bay (north of Sault Ste. Marie) to Elliot Lake. For inspiring photographs, visit www3.sympatico.ca/voyageur.trail . For info, e-mail cheryl.landmark@sympatico.ca or call (705) 949-4105.
EVENTS
In Sault Michigan The International I-500 Snowmobile Race in early February.. . . Engineer's Day on June 25, 2005 brings music, games, and the annual International Bridge walk. . . 2005 brings a new series of festivities celebrating the Soo Locks' 150th birthday. Visit www.saultstemarie.com for details on several weekends in July and August. Votageur Days are July 22-24 . . . The Sault Tribe's Traditional Powwow over the July 4 weekend brings grand entries, open drum, and lessons. July 4 brings a parade and fireworks. . . .The Sugar Island Old Time Music Festival in early August, with rustic camping. Call (906) 632-8750. . . . A varied summer program of free music concerts at Locks Park is on Wednesdays at 7 p.m. from June into August. . . . For more details consult www.saultstemarie.com or call (800) MI-SAULT.
• Sault Ontario puts on one of Ontario's largest winter carnivals, Bon Soo, with fireworks, a professional snow sculptures, contests and dances at the Roberta Bondar Pavilion, traditional winter sports, snow volleyball, snowpitch, and a Polar Bear Swim. . . . Canada Day, July 1, is celebrated with music, children's activities, and fireworks along the river boardwalk. . . In early September native people from across America travel to the Batchewana First Nation Annual Pow Wow on the Rankin Reserve. . . . .One of the world's richest pro curling events, the Regal Capital Curling Classic, comes to Sault Canada, usually in early November. . . . For details, contact Ontario Travel Information Centre. Call (705) 945-6941. Or visit www.ssmcoc.com and click on "community events."
HARBORS with transient dockage
In Sault Ste. Marie, Michiganthe Charles Harvey Marina south of Mission Point and the Sugar Island Ferry, east of town (906-632-6741; lat. 46° 28' 15" N, long. 84° 18' 00" W) with showers, launch ramp. Also, the George Kemp Marina in town on Portage Ave. by the SS Valley Camp (906-635-7670; lat. 46° 29' 57" N, long. 84° 20' 21" W) with shower, launch ramp, grills, laundry, long-term parking.
PICNIC PROVISIONS and PLACES
• In Sault Michigan the giant 24-hour Glen's Market is the convenient all-around provisioning stop with a big deli section. It's on I-75 Business Spur at the newish Cascade Crossing center with Wal-Mart. . . . More sophisticated deli fare can be had in town at Penny's Kitchen and Cup of the Day. See restaurants.
? Along Lake Superior's Whitefish Bay near Bay Mills and Brimley, choice picnic spots are the Big Pine Picnic Area, Monocle Lake, and Brimley State Park. The Wilcox Fish House west of Bay Mills sells fresh fish and a whitefish dip.
• In Sault Michigan, picnic tables at Locks Park and Mission Point are pretty whether or not there are ships to watch. Mission Point has grills, too.
• In Sault Ontario the easy visitor choices for picnic fare are in the big Station Mall on Bay Street near the river. There's a produce market and good takeout fare at Tim Horton's (famous for soups and good sandwiches) and Gourmet Stop. Tim Horton's has other locations around town.
• The fabulous Rome's Independent supermarket in Sault Ontario brings Americans across the border again and again. It offers popularly priced foods that are mainstream in multi-ethnic, British-influenced Canada but almost exotic to Americans - cornetti and scones in the bakery, clotted cream and Scottish marmalade, convenience and frozen foods like mussels, French cream puffs, and Indian matter paneer; and a deli that includes Indian takeout. The store had info on customs details. What can't be taken across the border into the U.S. in summer 2005 is: citrus and produce grown in countries other than Canada or the U.S.; beef of any kind; and certain bedding plants and flowers. Rome's is at 44 Great Northern (east side) north of McNab. Hours: Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat 8-7, Sun 9-6.
• The picnic tables at the Sault St. Marie Canal National Historic Site are a wonderful place to linger. The perimeter walk around St. Mary's Island affords the best view of St. Marys Rapids.
• Benches and picnic tables are all along the St. Marys River Boardwalk from the locks to the Bondar Pavilion and beyond.
• For ideas about more distant picnic destinations on the Lake Superior drive north from the city, ask at the Ontario Travel Information Center.
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