Hunts' Guide to The Upper Peninsula
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North Star Bakery

North Star Bakery
Paul Behm removes loaves of garlic focaccia from his brick oven. Perhaps Michigan's most remote bakery, it has lots of foodie fans.

Nine miles west of Tahquamenon Falls on M-123, it's a tremendous surprise to come upon this bakery in the middle of the woods, turning out crusty loaves of European sourdough bread in a wood-fired brick oven. (The property, built as a motel, is off the grid, like most of the surrounding area. The lights and mixer run with electricity from a propane generator.)

Joanne and Paul Behm had long been interested in European bread. They met a 70-year-old man from Fairview, Michigan, who helped them plan and build the oven. Then the pieces fell together. They opened the bakery in spring, 2000. Now they have a schedule that works out: they're open every day from May into October. Then they get to rest.

The bread's crisp crust, chewy texture, and flavor measure up to the best downstate breads in every way but price. (To build a local business in the U.P., prices can't be too high.) There's no set schedule for which breads are baked when. There's always a garlic focaccia. Each day brings a white bread, a whole wheat, and a rye. The two dozen varieties include very popular four- and eight-grain whole wheat breads, a new apricot-date bread, blue cheese (quite a hit), and asiago-jalapeño. The blueberry-cream cheese bread, baked during August, is a hit at the Paradise Blueberry Festival.

It's worth planning several picnics based on this good bread. Stop at Brown's Fisheries coming into Paradise for smoked fish or spread. Or go to the deli at Rahilly's IGA on West Helen in Newberry.
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On M-123 9 miles west of the Upper Falls or 13 miles northeast of Newberry. (906) 658-3537. Open from May 1 into mid October. Mon-Fri 10-6, Sat closed, Sun 1-4. Handicap accessible.
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Return to Tahquamenon Falls State Park

TAHQUAMENON FALLS STATE PARK
POINTS OF INTEREST
North Star Bakery. A surprising treat in this remote area off the electrical grid: a bakery with a wood-fired brick oven turning out crusty loaves of European-style sourdough breads - 17 kinds, several cheese combinations, multigrains, French, raisin-walnut ... more

Upper Tahquamenon Falls. A dramatic observation platform lets you stand at the falls' brink and look down at the 50-foot rush of falling water, 200 feet wide. Look out a bit and you can gaze on the tranquil river before its plummet. Come early to avoid crowds ... more

Lower Tahquamenon Falls. Four miles below the more dramatic Upper Falls, the smaller Lower Falls, with its series of cascades, can be enjoyed from an island if you rent a rowboat. It's a more contemplative experience ... more

Wilderness trails north of M-123. 17 miles of trail get hikers away from crowds and into wildlife-rich wilderness habitat: lakes, conifer forests, sandy ridges, and bogs. The North Country Trail connects from the Two-Hearted River to the Falls. ... more

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