Upper Tahquamenon Falls

Philip Greenspun

Upper Tahquamenon Falls, one of the largest east of the Mississippi, is a top U.P. attraction. The river's distinctive amber color is from the tanin of the cedar trees along its banks.

The Upper Falls are reached by walking the paved, wheelchair-accessible trail .4 miles to the two viewing areas. Expect crowds in peak summer season and fall color season unless you arrive early or late in the day.

The most memorable vantage point at the Upper Falls is the brink viewing platform. Find it by turning right at the Y in the path from the parking lot to the trails. There are 93 steps down to the brink viewing platform. The descent is worth the effort. You can stand right at the brink of the falls and take in the dramatic contrast between the serene meanderings of the Upper Tahquamenon River above and the roaring foam below the falls. The river is darkened by tannic acid from the many hemlocks, cedars and spruces along its banks. Tannin gives the initial spill of water an interesting brownish hue. From this same viewing platform you see, far downstream, the once-again peaceful river as it flows between reddish bluffs. In another 20 river miles it empties into Lake Superior's Whitefish Bay.
To reach the viewing platform down by the gorge, take a left at the Y in the path from the parking lot. Take 112 stairs down to the river to se up-close layers of sandstone carved by the waterfall. A boardwalk leads to a quiet sitting area and provides a fine photo opportunity for the Upper Falls.

Paths to the tops of both viewing areas are wheelchair-accessible asphalt. They offer many views of the Upper Falls without going down so many stairs. In winter the path to the overlook stairway is not plowed (and the steps are certainly not cleared!), but frequent visitors, often on snowmobiles, pack the path by Christmas.

The .5 mile nature trail leads from the gorge through the forest and back to the parking area. The entire area around the falls had been a beech-maple climax forest, developing since the retreat of the last glacier, until beech bark disease caused many beech to be removed in 2006. Still, some trees here are about 300 years old. Visitors focused on the falls miss them unless they think to look up.

A completely different approach to the falls, along the trail the Native Americans made, is part of the Tahquamenon Falls Riverboat Tour and Toonerville Trolley, starting in Soo Junction. See index. Viewing wildlife on the Upper Tahqumenon River is part of the tour's beauty.

An easy, flat trail into the forest is the 4-mile GIANT PINES LOOP, beginning at the brink of the Upper Falls and taking hikers across M-123. It cuts through what had been the fourth-largest old-growth forest in Michigan, a never-harvested community of American beech, sugar maple, yellow birch, and Eastern hemlock, interspersed with some white pine. Two of the largest white pine, north of M-123, are estimated to be over 150 years old. In the winter, this trail is groomed for cross-country skiing. Then it is accessed from parking by the Stables Picnic Area on M-123.

At the Upper Falls parking area, visitors are greeted by a striking timberframe log building that houses CAMP 33. Barrett Ludlow's gift shop offers souvenirs and some regional and nature books. Barrett is up on local history. The Camp 33 name recalls a northwoods logging camp. The shop adjoins the TAHQUAMENON FALLS BREWERY & PUB (see restaurants). These businesses are not controlled by the park. A former lumberman had bought land around the falls and, in 1950, erected buildings for a souvenir shop and snack stand modeled after authentic lumber camp structures. He kept two acres and gifted 156 acres to extend the state park at the Upper Falls. His descendants, Lark and Barrett Ludlow, invested in the splendid timberframe buildings and the takeout restaurant, picnic area, and outdoor fireplace. There are frequent weekend bonfires when the park is busy. The outdoor eating area looks out into the surrounding forest of big trees, well separated from the massive parking area.

Energetic, fit hikers might well prefer to avoid the busy parking lot and crowds, and approach the Upper Falls by foot from downstream, for maximum dramatic impact, along a portion of the North Country Trail.
The up-and-down RIVER TRAIL follows the Tahquamenon River for 4 miles downstream to the Lower Falls from the trailhead at the Upper Falls. Along the way, it crosses smaller streams on boardwalks. The trail takes an average of 2 hours one way. Hikers should bring water and a snack. Most people find they're not up to the round-trip hike of 8 miles. Now, between late June and Labor Day, Tahqua-Trekker shuttle service (269-275-3628; http//Xtrailspotters.com/tahquamenon) will take hikers from either falls back to their cars for $5/person with advance reservations (strongly recommended) or $12 for walk-ons. Season: between late June and Labor Day. Time: 1-7 p.m. Van leaves Upper Falls at 1 p.m., Lower Falls at 1:15. Starting at the Upper Falls means you can walk downhill. Shuttles to the Rivermouth and to County Road 500 can also be arranged.

http://dnr.state.mi.us/parksandtrails
(906) 492-3415. Recreation passport required: $10/year for Michigan residents, $8/day or $29/year for others. Wheelchair accessible: at Upper Falls, restaurant, shop, path from parking to 2 falls overlooks (but not down to river). At Lower Falls, concession, viewing areas, and boardwalk. Portions of the park are plowed all winter: camping at Lower Falls, parking at Upper Falls. (Trail to falls is packed snow.) Groomed cross-country ski trail off M-123.
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